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Pinching in suits due to thick chest (relative to body type)
#1

Pinching in suits due to thick chest (relative to body type)

Hey everyone...first off I'd really like to add the disclaimer that I am well aware that this post looks terrible and however much it may seem like a humble brag, that's REALLY not my intent.

I've been looking to add another suit to my wardrobe for B-school, and I've been having the same problem with every off the rack suit that I try: since I've been working on growing my chest over the past few years the chest material pinches up in my chest, making a noticeable inverted "V" shape in front of my chest. I have previously had one bespoke suit made(navy with subtle pinstripes) where the shop's owner was able to correct my problem with the aid of the brand's tailor( a trunk show).

Catch is I'm in the typical B-school student's financial situation(not bad, but no extravagant expenses) so I can't afford to drop a grand on a bespoke suit again.

Would I be better off biting the bullet on a single charcoal suit that's bespoke or is there any chance that a good tailor could correct the problem with an OTR?
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#2

Pinching in suits due to thick chest (relative to body type)

If you can't get the answer here you can always try styleforum.net

Good luck with B school!

Fate whispers to the warrior, "You cannot withstand the storm." And the warrior whispers back, "I am the storm."

Women and children can be careless, but not men - Don Corleone

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#3

Pinching in suits due to thick chest (relative to body type)

Buy Blacklapel 529$ for a 100% custom suit

I bought this one
http://www.blacklapel.com/suits/charcoal-blue-suit.html

I get lots of compliments on it and it fits perfectly.
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#4

Pinching in suits due to thick chest (relative to body type)

I bet it is not as bad as you think. And like you said, if you can't do bespoke, then I say just deal with it. Make sure it fits in the shoulders and is not stretching the button too much (buttons can be moved a bit too).

I have the same problem.
[img][Image: jL8Vxs5.jpg][/img]

I notice it. Maybe another guy with the same problem might notice it. Who cares, I can still fit my phone in my breast pocket, with a pen, and still get my hand in there to grab those items.

Even my custom suit has a bit of a kink on the lapel. Such is life.
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#5

Pinching in suits due to thick chest (relative to body type)

Buy Ermegnildo Zegna Roma fit and have it tailored. Roomier in chest/shoulder area.

Then taper it down in the mid-waist/low-shoulder area. Id go for heavy waist suppresion to get that V-shape

Easy peasy

WIA- For most of men, our time being masters of our own fate, kings in our own castles is short. Even those of us in the game will eventually succumb to ease of servitude rather than deal with the malaise of solitude
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#6

Pinching in suits due to thick chest (relative to body type)

Try lots of brands and find the ones that fit you specifically. I "should" wear a 44 suit, but have a 33" waist, and weigh 185#. Go figure, the 44 makes me look like I'm a Saddam Hussein cabinet member.

One thing I have found is unstructured suits are much better for me, because of the size of my lats, chest and shoulders. Any shoulder padding is accentuated, and then I look like robo cop. Even in "modern" suits. Unstructured suits with no padding look perfect on me. SuitSupply has many, and this French brand name Sean makes the most perfect fitting suits on me. http://www.seanstore.com/#!suits/ceqk I usually wear 42's in them, and they fit like custom suits.

Unless you go full bespoke that you can do starting around $1000/suit.

My other big problem is with the arm holes. Nothing off the rack can accommodate for that without going custom.
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