Quote: (01-29-2010 06:31 PM)speakeasy Wrote:
Hey G,
I've never been a suit guy, unless it's too weddings or funerals. Do you have any recommended readings on suits for fashion? I know there's suits you'd wear to business, and then there's the type of suit Diddy would wear to a record release party. How about breaking that out for us suit newbies. I know I need to pick up at least a few just for formal things.
Also, I'd like to hear about the accessories you need. What kind of shoes do you pair up the the suits. What colors(both shoes and suit fabric) are best. How you coordinate the tie, belt and watch and that sort of thing.
I know a little bit about this so I will add in my 2 cents.
MPM has a few posts about specifics (designers, cuts, etc) that you can look up on his site.
As for what I know:
-Suits (and accompanying accessories) range from formal to casual on a continuum. The most formal are tuxedo outfits, the least are the weird patterns, rhinestones and shit you will see some dude wearing in hollywood. Stay away from the hollywood look unless you are a celebrity and get your weird clothes for free, trends do not last and you look like a pussy.
-In general, fit is most important, followed by fabric (thread count: higher generally better), then pattern. A $5000 black suit that fits wrong looks worse than a $500 suit that looks wrong, because people who know will know that you are trying hard and STILL look like a dumbass. The sourcing of fabric is important as is the thread count; italian fabrics are what you want. 300s is a good thread count. Zegna makes a nice fabric. Pattern, as long as you stick with classics, is all up to personal preference. Nothing ridiculous, there is no need. I am partial to black suits or dark grey with pinstripes. Again personal preference, just make sure things match up properly.
-If money isn't an issue go with bespoke (custom fit) suits; go to London to have these made. You can also do well in NYC or Milan, and other towns in Italia. Zegna, Ozwald Boateng (a bit more progressive), Astor+Black, or any of the higher end savile row/bond st tailors will get you squared away. For less $ make sure you can get it tailored; buy a cheaper suit and take it to a good tailor instead of an expensive suit that you don't get altered. I stay away from brooks brothers and Polo RL suits.
-Never skimp on shoes. They should be the costliest part of your wardrobe besides the suit, and you will need to take care of them. A good pair of shoes will last forever if you get them repaired, and you can start off with one black pair and one brown pair. I am partial to gucci link loafers and the king of loafers ferragamo. Tuxedo shoes are the most formal (these are shiny), then laces (I wear to some weddings, black tie events, and in business scenarios), then loafers (my personal favorite and very versatile if you have swag). If you have the bread go for custom fit ones (cordovan horse leather is the tippity top end); most likely you will not have that kind of $ so for starters go to a place like Nordstrom if you live in the suburbs, or preferably hit a high fashion city: you are looking for quality. London, NYC, Paris, LA, Moscow, Milan, Miami, Dubai, even Chicago or Boston for more classic styles. Classic is important: make your expensive pieces sharp (shoes, suit) and make sure they fit right. When you buy shoes ask yourself "will I be able to wear these in 3 years?" Even if you don't keep them that long, its a good habit to not looking like a clown.
-Shirts have a high turnover and generally won't last that long. Always wear white shirts to dinner. Clean white shirts are the staple of your suit wardrobe. Have at least 3 of them, and you can never have enough. Find a brand that fits right and stick with it, there are hundreds of quality shirts out there and if you don't have to pay more to get them altered then all the better. Pink makes nice shirts, but expensive. Don't feel bad buying off the rack at Nordstrom, Saks, Barneys, etc, especially if on sale and it fits. Shirts can be creative, try some pinstripes, solid colors, anything that tickles your fancy.
-Ties, I like Hermes. A tie pulls the outfit together and you should not skimp. Buy 4 good hermes ties instead of 10 shitty ones. People will notice.
-I don't know anything about pocket squares so G that's your call. Socks should match shoes, shoes should match belt. If pants and shoes are different color, socks should be in between the two (gray pants black shoes = dark grey socks). Just buy decent socks, that feel good. Belts you can get creative, but stick with something tasteful. Armani makes nice belts, or pick up some custom pieces in Argentina. Brand of belt isn't important, just make sure leather is up to par.
-Good rule with shirts/ties: if tie has pattern, wear solid shirt. if shirt has pattern, wear solid tie. As for mixing patterns, beware and don't ask me, as I tend not to.
Hope this is helpful, feel free to correct me on any errors
