Russia has long since been dead, but no one noticed ...
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Some Russians say it's fake and political, some say true. Can't tell. As a Russian it's grim enough to believe to be true
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Got a buddy of his correspondence. Both are professional journalists, quite well-known, so that the text below will be interesting to read. The story is one of them, Yuri Pankov, for some reason, decided to spend a vacation in East Siberia, according to the letter, with her daughter, and wrote a text in the form of a diary.
The purpose of these notes is unknown to me. Maybe it will publish, maybe not. I read it, they asked if he could relay to Learn, was told that yes, you can. Judging by the carelessness of the text, in fact, a living diary. Next - a copy of the diary of the Jura.
Brotherhood of the end
(From the diary of a woodcutter)
The fourth week travel to Siberia. And daughter were in Krasnoyarsk, Abakan (Khakassia), Minusinsk Kyzyl (Tuva), Irkutsk, Bratsk, Angarsk, Winter, Ulan-Ude. Reached even Ivolginsky datsans (the spiritual center of Russian Buddhists.)
The Krasnoyarsk Territory raced to 800 kilometers a day at speeds of up to 140 per hour.
Once on the road somewhere under the Kyzyl from our car did not even have time to dodge cant kites that were grazing peacefully on a carrion. Carrion in the end it became more, but now have to change the windshield.
Sometimes for several hours, we in the dark heh * achili the steppe or semi-desert. So it was in Khakassia, Tuva, and in the foothills of Tibet.
It's very beautiful. That is sooo beautiful. Nowhere in the world there is no such thing.
But some negative I still noticed: COUNTRY DIED.
Without exaggeration. But no one noticed.
Just forget about it a long time ago.
From Ulan-Ude daughter went by train to Moscow, and I went in Angarsk, where I met an old friend. In the end, we drove north through the different cities - Winter, Usole Siberian Sajansk, Tulun.
Now I'm in the Bratsk. For the fifth day.
It is beyond description. I have the feeling that I was in the early 90s. This is reflected in everything and, above all, an incredible amount bandyuganov and drunk. Churches not in principle. The first thing that seemed suspicious, it's incredible popularity taxi. City the size of the Moscow District and the population of 260 thousand people just flooded with them. In the yard of the building can be seen 2-3 of the park, pulling up or departing machine checkered.
Then it turned out that the common people here go by taxi, even for bread, (as in "Diamond Hand"), because in all seriousness afraid of thieves and murderers. Taxi - the most common public transport. At either end of town bused for 60 rubles. Cause the car on the phone and she literally pulls for 2-3 minutes. After midnight, the town is just dying out.
In winter, in the middle of the day can disrupt the passer with a fur hat or remove a sheepskin coat. In summer, the order of the selected mobile phones, pluck gold jewelry chain. All that can disrupt, take away etc.
A teacher in a rural school earns 3.5 thousand rubles. Zamglavvracha sister city hospital - 10 thousand
Sober until you've seen. Taiga cut mercilessly. In Bratsk district forest remains, according to the mayor, for 30 years. (It's all cut down by "Ilim Pulp", in which he worked Medvedev, and that in the 90 years spent on the deal
sale of shares in this company to Americans. So everything here belongs to them.)
One word of Siberia and the Far East lost one. Everything here is the Chinese curse, but realize that apart from them as nothing good can be expected to occur. Good - the husband of a Chinese work in Chinese companies, Chinese fruit, Chinese restaurants, holiday in China.
Books for some reason no one is interested. Although the station Irkutsk managed to buy a collection of V. Rasputin with his autograph for 150 rubles. Best gift from a trip to Siberia did not come up.
Above the town blaring siren periodically, during the war. This is informed that the Bratsk timber processing plant (BLPK) begins to release waste. Through the pipe, stupid - right into the sky. The plant is located near the center of the city. Smoke coming all the time, but when we heard the sirens, eerie howl begins release of some real chemistry, and the citizens immediately close the windows, heal their noses and all. The stench is wild. Comes in waves. Reeks worse than a public toilet. Blevotno-something sour.
(Very sad when it's stench covers the city in light holiday Sept. 1, the Day of Knowledge. Babes in white shirt and tie, with the colors go on the streets, smelly garbage). On the other side of town is Braz - Bratsk Aluminum Plant.
From there, just keep belching thick smoke as some of CHP. And all - of the city. On the third hand - Bratsk hydroelectric plant. There's nothing going on. But there are always waiting some nightmare like the one that happened a year ago at the power station. On the fourth side - the so-called Fraternal sea.
Remember the "Farewell to the mothers' V. Rasputin? Here in '67 were flooded hundreds of villages, cemeteries. However, the people here in full fish and not disdain. (For comparison, in the so-called Krasnoyarsk sea fish from the flooded cemeteries can not catch).
The average salary is 8,000 rubles. Saw children kneeling at the railroad crossing and begging. Putin and Medvedev in these parts is simply called "n * wild."
In general, mestechno wildly depressing. But it is very interesting. Managed to shoot a 3-room apartment, but without a washing machine and a terrible electric stove. But there is a jacuzzi in the bathroom).) The house, by the way, Khrushchev's five-storey building, but the apartment was made alterations. Studio, damn it! All the fun - 8000 per month. I will stay here a couple of weeks. Poputeshestvuet, ponaslazhdatsya communication with the natives and native.
Was in several regional cities and villages. Oh-oh-oh-oh-oh. Such poverty is simply impossible to imagine. The local doctor told me that some children go to school without underwear ........ Scary? In the local store sold lionozovskoe milk "Wimm-Bill-Dann" on 46 rubles. per liter. Tangerines - 150 rubles. But a lot of cheap vodka.
I completely forgot! The sex ratio is - 1 to 3. That is, the three women, one man! So every now and mother and daughter are living with one guy. Full of mothers aged 15-16 years. I plakal. Because of that a lot of lesbians.
Oh, I forgot to say. Winter was in town. Ruled mark - United Russia. For the second year boarded a local hospital. The city's population - 34,000 people. In the year 600-700 children are born. Women forced to give birth in ambulances who bought the desired day. Who does not have time - at home. To the nearest towns - Angarsk, Kuitun, Irkutsk - 150-200 kilometers. Sajansk - 24 km. But not everyone has a car and taxi money. In general, do not drive.
And more. During the so-called Fraternal sea, many villages in the forest. The distance between them at 100-700 kilometers. On the road - by ferry - again on rough roads. Some villages are very small. Some - 1000-2000 persons.
If a person dies, the body must take in Bratsk. It has to be something to load, drop off the ferry, ferry to the other side, to bring to the morgue, to register, and then deliver the same way across the sea to his home village to the cemetery.
This trip is a round trip in the company of the deceased is wild bucks by local standards, and takes about three days. Therefore, it is simply not register the dead, buried in the earth for a reason.
320 of its outstanding adult residents of one village, only 200 survived. In any kind of dead grandmothers still send in retirement, it is divided local and drink away. And their votes in the elections, United Russia is repurchased, the Liberal Democratic Party. The fact that the local electoral committee may consist entirely of relatives. They receive from the party agitators bribes 50-60 thousand (at all), and at the end of the day the election present themselves as a mark of the dead and put a tick opposite to pay a lot.
Did you know that we are not electrified Siberia? Wires are stretched so far, although a lot of power, and the most powerful in Europe: Sayano-Shushenskaya, Fraternal, Ust-Ilim, Irkutsk. Build Boguchanskaya. But here's the wire under the Soviet regime did not have time to take everywhere. A edrossam care. Line is pulled just to the west. But nothing. On camp (even at Baikal!) Sometimes give light to the cabins of diesel for 3-4 hours in the evening and in the morning for an hour. Although some electricity, of course. But there is room per day is about four thousand. My daughter brought a kerosene burner in a room and it warmed tea.
Everywhere differently heh * ovo uncomfortable, but equally beautiful. This "beautiful" removes all negative. But if you imagine the life of so-called "Siberians" - that is such a horror, it's better not to think. And, I was here 24 years ago. Then, though cursed life, but trying to improve it. And now everyone is aimed only at draining money from nature. Woodcutters who herachat weeks in the forest, "Ilim Pulp" pays 30,000 rubles.
But in this case, in agreement with the district administration, no longer pays any (!) Funds to local social programs, to the roads, the restoration of the forest. His way, there remained for 30 years. I read about it in an interview with the mayor of fraternal district. He hopes that the forest will grow. But this is not true. Cedar is not restored so quickly. I specifically looked up information on crop sites.
All for coming here from Moscow is very expensive. In this case, the conditions of Moscow's real for any grandmother did not create and do not buy. Gyms and swimming pools, sun decks here. And if there is, it is only for children during the school year. If you want to drink coffee, the local eatery and cafe offers you only the "Nescafe 3 in 1" of bags. Swill, which consume life-threatening.
In the only place where Bratsk brewed coffee (called the institution "chip", a cup costs 250 rubles). This is - a place for the local elite, and her children. Here is spinning local "golden youth".
But the sites, however, are very beautiful!!
And here is fantastic names of people with whom I was able to encounter:
Olga Figure
Stepan Irinovich
Peter Orlovich
Gaydarov Gaidar Mamedovich
Arthur Marynovych Fortune
A girl named Vereneya
Oksana Sloth (O.Len)
Everyday life here - a real feat, compare flight into space without a spacesuit. Local men working in the manner or in the "Ilim Pulp" impotent for 40 years. All the woodcutters, of course, no arms - no legs. On the tarmac, connecting the city with BAM worn, heavy-duty belonging to the Americans ("Ilim Pulp"), "Black loggers" and the Chinese. They take out "roundwood". By BAM dragged to China or to Vladivostok. And Braz for processing raw materials brought from Australia. Delusion of some kind, right?
Buryatia studied. Buryatka, believe me, it is better Buryats. But neither the one nor the other can not drink. Alcohol knocks them instantly. But they are not particularly drawn to the vodka. That's all from Russian. This we do as solder and solder. But buryatka ... Mmmm ... I'm not kidding. They are wildly beautiful to 30-32 years. Very neat little faces. While we were once in the taxi on about. Olkhon (it was very close), one is a half hour sitting on my lap. Uuuuuu But I did this ... Just be very closely.
The women are all about-the-very spoiled. And not only in Buryatia. I already wrote that in the Irkutsk region, Bratsk guys really lacking. So every now and mother and daughter are living with one guy. Yesterday I even met one such. She lives with her mother, step-father and step-father of the child. Can you imagine? ...
Full of mothers aged 15-16 years. They are afraid to have an abortion because the pre-revolutionary gynecology, and after the "procedure" sterility guaranteed.
A lot of lesbians. Unthinkable! And not just among the young. Local men after 40 years - without exception impotent. What remains of Russian beauties.
Churches in the city for five days I have not seen. Only in a remote area. In short, I go and cry ...
Commissar Zima - the man except that no saint. He has every recruit goes to the office, and on the neck, in the bag, next to a cross, a piece of paper with a mobile number of the commissar. If you will take the fleet or something by today's standards jungle type of Kaliningrad, Pskov, or bullying, or what, he can always call the Colonel. He will intercede.
The local people are very poor. You will not believe. We commissar 140 people took to the army in the spring, and the reserve - 80 people - have remained at home. Almost all because of the so-called "Malnutrition". Little weight in the normal growth. Although most here do not believe it (!), The army - salvation. Snatch a guy from the criminal environment, give breath a large family of an unemployed freeloader, etc.
History repeats itself, when the Red Army during the collectivization was a salvation for peasant boys. All were fed, clothed, shod. That's life was! Is not that of the dispossessed in the villages. So now the whole Siberia - one big village of the dispossessed.
The people ceased to breed cows, as their mouths nowhere. It is in Siberia for you! Yes, just the land framed by someone in the property and is surrounded by barbed wire. And before that it was a field for grazing ...
August 30
Two years ago, just as of August 30, I went to a concert of Madonna in the hero city of Nice, on the Cote d'Azur. This year, on August 30, I met with the military commissar, who fussed about the fate of two toilets for the local Zima kindergarten. There's just no toilets and children scat just on the floor, for zanovesochkoy
From a conversation with a military commissar:
- Yes, you look like a living officials on what cars they drive, where to buy clothes that they eat, where the rest. How long it will last! This is not just unfair, it's mean! It is pure betrayal of his people. No. This is treason! You, the military is called "treason."
- Hmm. Treason area-wide? Probably. In Moscow, officials imprisoned for treason in the form of a transfer of state secrets to foreign intelligence services. Are you all serious. Betrayal - it's official refusal to decide on repair or replacement of the hospital toilet in kindergarten.
A technicals in kindergarten receives a salary of 2.5 thousand. What is the technicals? In our - cleaning lady.
August 31
morning.
The girls here are right, meet guys for fun. No further calculation is not. Give to everyone who likes. Without obligation. "What is sex without commitment?" - Asked my friend Victor local Komsomol Lena. - "It means without a condom," - she said judiciously.
Over a lifetime, Lena had time to visit only in the small town of Vihorevka, cities Tanguy, Winter and Irkutsk, where he wanted to enter into inyaz. But flew, and went to a local college on fraternal correspondence, which trains teachers of elementary grades.
September 1
morning.
On the streets of the city today is especially festive. Lots of drunk kids and their parents. September 1. Day of Knowledge ...
Ages of Love
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I'm still too tired to do my full writeup for last night which was very fun, but I almost got face controlled and not my buddy. That was a first for me in the FSU.