Ive now been to every province of Laos. The country is no longer a drug/party destination.
I've seen a few retiree groups beyond Luang Prabang. But it's still mostly backpackers.
The outdoor adventure industry is new and still developing. Reliability and affordability were issues in some places.
Northern Laos:
In short you can safely skip Bokeo and Udomxai Provinces.
Luang Namtha is your best bet for both sightseeing and trekking with easy access to ethnic minorities. Treks there are regular and affordable, but tend to be lumped together among different packages and agencies.
Phongsali lacks infrastructure and a solid tourism industry. Fly from Vientiane to Boun Neau (oddly most treks are in this district). Organize a big group (5+) if you want to trek without waiting around for days.
I'd recommend also including the Lao/Tai homeland in China. Banna is where the Lao/Tai/Dai ethnicity originally emigrated from. Important to check out while in the area.
Not sure I'll be able to sync up with my Yunnan girl. From what I read it's easy to bus around to the ethnic villages in Xishuangbanna. Trekking is largely on your own. Not all villages still give free hospitality (food and accommodation) to foreigners.
I'll go into more details later. First let me share my experience on traveling with a SEA girl for so long. It's been interesting.
My Lao girl and I were together the better part of three months. Longest run I've had exclusively with one woman. Went surprisingly well.
We went to every province together. Wow! The whole country... We did pretty much every attraction, too.
Three trips together over two years. So we knew each other well. It went beyond just being comfortable. I had implicit trust. No way it'd have worked otherwise.
White God Factor in SEA can punch up your quality by a point or two. Still it doesn't negate the trust issue.
I was plain lucky to land an honest woman. I left her alone with all my stuff on a daily basis and never got robbed.
I TRY to only fuck around with educated or upper class girls. If she has free time I'm always left wondering is this girl is a freelancer, sponsored, or what? The only real screen is to actually take a trip and see what happens.
I'm not just talking about while showering. She watched my computer bag at bus stops, spent time alone in our room with the key, paid large bills, bought tickets, food, shopping, errands, brought back receipts, exact change, etc. I even left the country with her watching my stuff in the hotel.
Another tough issue is time and money. I prefer open-ended travel. I need flexibility to change plans, detour, explore, linger. This kind of travel takes saving or passive income.
I guess this chick is the SEA holy grail. A sponsored city girl whose traditional village upbringing keeps her personality in check.
The most mileage I usually get from an MLTR is a joint two-week vacation. Factoring in at least one bullshit fight over other girls.
For off-the-cuff romance it's usually just a day or weekend trip. A handful of times I've had girls fly somewhere for a week or so.
Lao was the only hot SEA chick I've met who didn't need a career, shit job, or to freelance. Her house and car were paid for by a sponsor. She's got some income from investments and business. She even ditched a new BF to take off with me for an indeterminate amount of time.
She finally ran down to her last few hundred thousand Kip this week. Was also getting antsy about her house. No one started her car or paid her utility bills in over two months.
Still it was a good deal for her. I paid for our accommodation, motorbikes, some small attractions. Pretty much everything I'd be paying for if on my own or with a random girl.
I was annoyed she loaned $300 to a guy she was fucking right before leaving. Of course when he found out about it me he refused to pay her back.
She threatened to leave early. I stood firm and in the end she got wired money to cover the rest of our trip. I guess all girls are programmed to test you for provider
Having her as a Laos guide was helpful but didn't make too much difference. Most people in tourism industry spoke English.
If I felt something was overpriced for the quality/service I sent her in alone and waited around the corner. She'd negotiate in Laos to save $1-2.
Seems small but adds up when you have multiple transactions each day: guesthouse, motorbike, laundry, restaurants, etc.
Admittedly most prices will drop a $1 if you smile and ask yourself in English. The real savings is on adventure stuff. Laos people can't afford it, so most companies offer it at cost.
For Gibbon Experience she got a HUGE discount (80% off) for herself by doing this. In Luang Namtha she got 50% off a trek (we decided to spend a night in Muang Sing to visit some ethnic villages ourselves).
Another savings is to book bus tickets yourself. Sometimes we were busy and had the Guesthouse make a "reservation". This could incur up to a 70% percent commission. Then you'd still have to show up early to claim an actual seat.
Using her phone to call ahead while on the bus also helped. When you get off long distance buses in Laos the station is outside town. All the farang pile into a tuktuk for a dash to the guesthouses.
In smaller towns there wasn't much availability. Most guesthouses aren't online and if they are using booking.com makes it significantly more expensive. A few times we got the last decent budget room by doing this.
She was a wonderful travel partner. Never complained. Hauled her own luggage plus our communal toiletry/food tote bag. Though by the end she had taken it over with cosmetics.
Traveling for more than a few weeks you need big bottles. We went shopping together and agreed on same products for shampoo, soap, mouthwash, toothpaste, etc.
It's sounds dumb but working out these little issues made the trip a lot easier.
It took daily reinforcement, but I got her swishing Listerine twice a day. Thank God. Asia is chock full of hot girls with rotten breath.
She'd hop out of bed to piss and swish before morning sex. She knew to avoid open mouth kissing me unless her breath was fresh.
The wet toilets in Laos are filthy. Often with no shelves or hooks. We bought big pump bottles to keep the business end off the moldy floors.
I'd shower first in the morning. She'd follow, twist pumps down, dry the bottles, and pack them. At night she'd shower first and set up the bathroom. Almost like being at home.
Bleach doesn't seem to exist in Laos. Towels are usually ratty and stained. Again it took reinforcement, but I had her making daily runs for "fresh" towels.
We developed a little technique into our sex to keep the bed dry. To squirt her we'd scoot to the edge with her ass hanging off. I'd help support her legs backwards for balance. Then cup my free hand when she erupted so the fountain (mostly) gushed to the floor.
Again it sounds small but working out little domestic issues like this makes extended travel a lot more pleasant.
Finding a machine washer in small Laos towns was sometimes impossible. Or we'd roll through town too quickly to get it back by morning. Laundry is air dried here.
No problem for a former village girl. She washed it all by hand with no complaint. Then strung it in front of the fan. I'd glance over to think "Wow this 9 is scrubbing by clothes with a smile on her face. What planet am I on?"
By the end, she was even manually inflating my camping air pad and setting it up under the top sheet. I don't know how anyone can sleep on these cheap Asian mattress.
Staying in budget accommodation has its drawbacks. But it's what allows me to travel full time. If you keep a domestic girl with you to do all these kind of things it makes it far more tolerable over the long term.
I put her on a plane this morning from Phongsali to Vientiane (900,000K). Flights are Tue, Thu, Sat morning (if I understood the Lao Skyway office at the Vipaphone Hotel).
She was thrilled to avoid a 24hr bus ride. Even offered to pay me back when we meet again next month for Pi Mai.
I'm on a bus heading back to Odomxai. I plan to spend a week or two in Yunnan, China. Maybe do some trekking in Luang Namtha beforehand since I still have plenty of time left on this Laos visa.
I saw everything in Jinghong on a trip with my Yunnan girl. But didn't make it any further south. Xishuangbanna is called Sipsongpanna by Tai/Lao people. The areas between the Lao border and Jinghong is home to several small ethnic minority villages.
As a bonus last week Yunnan texted me she broke up with her BF and asked where I was. So maybe get her to fly down.
She's a business type. She wasn't happy staying in crappy hostels. And rather than do the domestic work she just paid for us stay in a real hotel. Kinda weird how different girls can do such different things to make her man feel comfy.
I have to admit the long bus rides and mediocre guesthouses in Laos have worn me down. It's nice being alone now.
I just plan to chill out. Game here isn't even worthwhile. In three months I can count on one hand the hot girls I've seen. Most with boyfriends or beta orbiters.
Bangable local girls are rare too. With only a night or two in town it's a tough sell unless things are just right.
Overstaying my visa in Laos by a few days wasn't a big deal. But at $10/day could get expensive quick.
Bokeo Province (Miss)
Gibbon Experience zipline is the only real attraction. It was good but Tree Top Explorer zipline in Champasak is better.
There's nothing else of note in the province that you won't see elsewhere. Tuktuk drivers in Huay Xai are dumb and lazy. Good luck getting a tour. No one rents motorbikes.
Most tourists on Mekong slowboat say they feel like it was a waste of two days. Fly to Luang Prabang instead.
Do the Golden Triangle area from Chiang Rai Province Thailand. Much better.
Chiang Rai Province (Hit)
Spent two weeks and went everywhere in Chiang Rai. Even scored a third land crossing when I came back from Shan State, Myanmar. Thai border officials can be flexible if they want to. Air pollution horrible by March. Tinder.
Luang Namtha Province (Hit)
Half a dozen trekking agencies in town. Most have at least one trek leaving the next day. Easy to find a group of 4+ to keep it affordable.
The treks are in Nam Ha NP so the actual hiking won't be on a deforested ridge like parts of Phongsali (Pak Nam Noi). But expect to be clumped with other tour groups who paid slightly different prices.
The ballpark for a one night trek was K400,000. This is half what you'll pay in Phongsali. You'll have more options to choose from as well. Most leave the next day.
The Kao Rao caves are a long motorbike ride and can be skipped. The museum is ok but has hardly any explanations of the tribal groups.
The rapids (ahem waterfall) south on the Nam Tha are small. I'm sure there's somewhere better to raft in SEA. The trek guide I met at the rapids asked to borrow my motorbike to buy food for his group in the next village. His group said they'd been clumped with others but they were the only ones who'd signed up for this portion.
Namdee Waterfall is barely flowing in dry season. But still go to see Lanten people make bamboo paper. It was the weekend so I watched local boys hunt crab in the falls.
Muang Sing is good for an overnight motorbike trip. It's morning market is nothing special though.
You can drive to the villages of 10+ ethnicities. The older Akha women were dressed up and even bare breasted. But the other groups looked like any lowlander Lao Loum villages. Still was easiest and cheapest way to meet and chat with a dozen minorities in a day. (My girl was a key translator though bc none spoke English. Otherwise you'll have to hire a guide.)
Muang Sing is a dump but has an ok tribal museum. Half the town is Chinese and locals can cross into Yunnan.
Udomxai Province (miss)
Really nothing to see here. The town isn't a dump but doesn't stand out either. The museum is decent. Most exhibits had English.
Nam Kat waterfall is no longer a picnic spot. It's been developed by a resort that charges 90,000K and cuts off access past mid afternoon. To get there a tuktuk is 200,000K or 100,000 for a motorbike rental. No helmets with visors and the road is very dusty with construction trucks. Even if you pay the last 5km of road is accessed is via a resort golf cart aimed at selling you on an elephant ride or zipline. There's also a disgraceful fake Khamu village straight out of Disneyland.
Zero people signed up for treks at tourist office over 3 days. Funny hours.
Muang La isn't nearly as pretty as it sounds. Chill out somewhere else.
Phongsali (Hit but be prepared)
The bus from Udomxai to Muang Khua is only 3 hours. So I'd recommend connecting straight through from Luang Namtha (4 hours from Udomxai). Most people seem to arrive by boat having come up 5-7 hours on the Ou River from Nong Khiaw (the even better chillout spot).
Muang Khua had some trekking options but the tourist office was disorganized. Walking around town and over the bridges takes an hour. The only real activity left to do is a guided trek. Only one person was signed up for a trek (on a deforested ridge to a village who's members I chatted at the bus stop). There was a wedding in town booking up all the decent places so we only stayed one night. Not the best impression.
Some tourists continue up the Ou River to Phongsali town. But it's less popular and expensive. You'll get stuck a night 1.5 hours from Phongsali town in the port village of Hatsa (which is boring and expensive homestay).
We took an early bus back to Pak Nam Noi. Waiting for the Udomxai bus heading for Phongsali to roll in takes a few hours. The village has nothing to do and you can't leave the bus stop area to trek around without risk of losing your seat.
What amazed me was that right there at the bus stop were several women from different ethnic groups selling their bamboo shoots and trinkets. All in ethnic costume. A few older women even had the full head to toe outfit not just bags and headdress.
How many tourists do you think walked over to chat or interact with them? None. No foreigners. No Laos. Just me and my girl. The other foreigners just sat there staring off into space for hours. These were all tourists planning to trek to remote villages to meet these people.
Some of the women were from small groups like Ko Lo and other Akha subgroups. They let us take photos with them. I gave some small money as thanks.
The older women had tried to use the tie a bracelet on your wrist sales technique. I made a point of just giving her the money with a translation that it was because I was so happy to see someone proudly displaying their Akha ethnic identity. She insisted she wasn't Akha but Ko Lo.
I noticed almost all the treks in Luang Namtha and Phongsali take you to Akha/subgroup villages. People visiting northern Laos are mostly interested in Akha so I guess that's supply and demand.
Still seems weird to spend all that time and money hiking through secondary forest but not talking to them when they're sitting a mere 20 feet away. I saw the same non-interactions with Hmong villagers and trekking tourists in central Laos.
The bus up to Phongsali was 8 hours. Climbing in elevation it barely crawled. Lucky we got a sleeper.
The bus ride back down was much shorter like 5 hours to reach Pak Nam Noi. A few more to Udomxai.
Phongsali is at 1500m. Highest city in Laos. It has the best tribal museum in the north. I spent a whole day in it. Phongsali wasn't founded by Lao people. I read it was Phou Noi people who migrated from Myanmar.
Renting a motorbike in Phongsali is tricky. Get up early bc there's not enough to go around! Typical junked up bikes for 100,000K. What else is new? The town is hilly but walkable. You'll want to stroll the old Chinese quarter on foot. Continuing on foot up Phu Fa sky mountain is a good workout.
I found one helmet with a visor. The road to the tea and whiskey villages aren't too dusty though. The tea village is far more interesting and has a great little exhibit on tea. The previous tourist left his compressed tea cigars in the bikes hold so that was a nice savings.
The view of town from Phu Fa is great. Though the sea of clouds burns off early in March. We didn't see it since Amazing Lao Travel only rents bikes from 8am. No way I'm walking up earlier. Sunset from Phu Fa is tricky as well. The sun sets prematurely behind thick atmosphere but still somewhat colorful.
Amazing Lao and the Tourist Office are the only two places to get a guided trek in Phongsali town. The former is overpriced and the latter doesn't keep regular hours. Neither had a sign board to chalk names of interested parties, group size, dates, length of trek, etc. Completely disorganized.
I stopped by each office several times/day. Unless you happen to be there at the same time as another trekker you'd get the same story: "some people are interested, but no one signed up, so stop by later". Then they'd turn out to want different tours, wait for more people to make it affordable, or a guide wouldn't be available.
I watched a small group stay up past 9pm haggling last night. Went to bed bc I had to get my chick on a morning plane. I stopped by at 7am to see if I could join.
They ended up paying K750,000 each for a one night homestay and hiking just two Akha villages. Their leader was pissed I didn't stay up to help negotiate. Without my girl my addition wouldn't lower their pp price.
On previous nights I met other groups who'd negotiated K750,000-900,00 for a 5 village hikes for 3days 2 nights.
Visiting more villages is nice I guess but the routes are mostly circles so even going for 5-6 nights doesn't get you very deep into the forest.
When I'd ask for pinpoints on a topo map the hikes seemed like something I'd be comfortable doing myself in cheap plastic sandals or going to a nearby village by moto.
Oddly I think the nearby ethnic villages on dirt roads may see less foreigners than some of the more popular trekking destinations around Phongsali town. The reason for this is tourists on treks want to feel like they're going to a village that isn't linked to society by a road. Roads tend to modernize and homogenize ethnic identities.
Most of the more interesting treks seemed to leave from Boun Neau or Boun Tai which are small Provincial villages well away from Phongsali town. Boun Neau has the airport and may actually become the new provincial Capitol.
I stopped in Boun Tai on the bus ride up. Again I talked with some of the ethnic minority villagers so felt kind of weird paying for a trek around there. Plus it's a few hours drive south.
Laos Itineraries
My recommendation would be to fly into Luang Prabang. Then head south to Vang Vieng and Vientiane.
From the Capitol take a bus to Konglor Cave. Then connect to Savannakhet for a short stop.
From Pakse make a loop of the Boliven Plateau. This is the most beautiful place in Laos (unless you hate epic waterfalls with natural swimming pools).
Wat Phou is a unesco world heritage Khmer sight in Champasak. Worth a stop, especially if you're going to Cambodia for Angkor Wat.
Then either continue onto Cambodia or cross the border to Ubon for a cheap flight back to Bangkok.
If you have more time you can fly into Vientiane then air connection to Phongsali. After seeing Phongsali and trekking head to Luang Namtha for another trek to different hill tribes. Then continue to Chiang Rai Thailand.
Alternatively from Phongsali connect to Muang Khua. Boat down Nam Ou River to Muang Ngoi/Nong Khiaw. Then bus to Luang Prabang.
The 9 hour night bus from Vientiane to Phonsavan isn't too bad unless you are already jet lagged and coming off a flight. However Xieng Khouang and Houaphan Province are probably less interesting to the average tourist. Plain of Jars is something that looks exactly like the postcard. Same for Pathet Lao caves of Vieng Xai.
If you have more time to spend in central/southern Laos the Thakhek Loop is OK. But it's all caves and no waterfalls. To me it's caves all seem more or less the same with the exception of Tham Kong Lo (Konglor).
Savannakhet and Champasak has some eco-trekking. But if you have the time I suggest the Tree Top Explorer zipline or of Pakse. They'll Bus you through Paksong coffee plantations and into a national protected area for the actual trek.
Unlike Gibbon Experience it's not just ziplines. With TTE you repel, scale a waterfall/cliff face, rope bridges, and trek through and jump into cascading waterfalls.
Laos has several border crossings connecting to rural provinces of Vietnam. If you plan a visa in advance or get a two week waiver (most EU I think) the main one to check out is from Muang Khua to Dien Bien Phu.
This is where the Vietminh sieged the French and collapsed their colonial hold on Vietnam. I'd have made the trip save for not having a visa.
Laos has several connections with Isan Thailand. The main reason most tourists cross is to take a budget flight back to BKK for $20-30.
It's worth spending a week relaxing in Ubon R or Udon T after your Laos adventure. Pipeline Tinder and you'll have a Thai college fuck fest to send you off.
If you're after a Lao flag your best bet is Vientiane or Luang Prabang. Most good looking Lao women are going to move there for opportunity.
I saw some ok faces on Laos women in villages and small cities, but they're not dieting and exercising. Even if keen finding a way to social and isolate them for a SNL would be difficult unless you have a remote bungalow.
Plenty of gross western female backpackers though. I'm talking mostly 4-5s with a rare 7-8 college girl. Quality goes way up in Luang Prabang and Vang Vieng.
Of you do get into a relationship with a Laos women and you want to see her again be prepared for some Bullshit that you have no control over. My girl really wanted me back in Vientiane with her until it's time for Pi Mai. I really wanted to go. But I can't stay in her home. We have no problem traveling all over Laos as bf and gf. But despite being. Big city Vientiane is where her social network is. We tried it last year. The grapevine reacted like wildfire and after a few nights her family was on her case. A frenemy could make one phone call and have us both arrested and needing to bribe the cops. Then I could still be a red from coming back to Laos.
To her it was relaxing to fly home. But to me I'd have to get a hotel and live it of a suitcase. Gets old when you can't even sleep over.
Secondly her English is not great and never will be. That's probably the nice thing that helps us connect on a fun and romantic man to woman level. But to have kids and build a life together? Significant hurdle that I'd have to be head over heels to want to deal with over say an Isan girl with near perfect English.