Quote: (03-22-2016 12:14 PM)Pontifex Maximus Wrote:
+1. Just when I lined up a $2000 budget for suits and was completely clueless about suits. Suits, that was clutch.
Quote: (03-22-2016 11:50 AM)Gustavus Adolphus Wrote:
Great write-up.
Quote: (03-22-2016 09:27 AM)churros Wrote:
Amazing, repped.
Quote: (03-22-2016 09:58 AM)ball dont lie Wrote:
Amazing work Suits!
Cheers.
Quote: (03-22-2016 08:18 AM)Jnx Wrote:
How do you personally go about finding a good tailor? I don't want to take my suit to a tailor that doesn't know current trends
I use a tailor here in Beijing. They primarily target tourists, but they have a number of fans who live here who have discovered that they have a commitment to quality. At $100 USD per suit (if one bargains well), it's an excellent suit for the price. I feel lucky.
Generally, you don't need to worry about trends. The most timeless suits are the ones the ones that stick to traditional standards, although a few modifications that you can research yourself and request may be in order.
Quote: (03-22-2016 09:27 AM)churros Wrote:
Do you have advice on spotting good materials when getting one custom made? I've had shirts custom made in India, but liked some materials better than others.
I'm not an expert in analyzing materials. I've been lucky enough to find a tailor shop that only stocks suit materials of decent quality. I've gotten years of wear out of all of the suits they've made for me with all the structuring staying in places and not even a lost button.
My black herringbone jacket is showing some wear on the lapel edges, but that's after hundreds of days of wear.
I can't advise you on this topic, beyond to recommend getting a referral from someone who has had a good long term experience with a tailor. Generally, a lot of low quality work and materials won't seem like until six months down the road where the shoddiness becomes very apparent.
Quote: (03-22-2016 09:58 AM)ball dont lie Wrote:
If I had to go with four main suits to start Id go in an entirely different direction.
You seem to be into the grey/black section of colors. I prefer blues.
So if I had to go with four suits to start.
Medium Grey - You say Dark grey, it seems to be the same idea.
Navy Blue - Dark Navy. This can be worn for anything that a black suit would be needed except a funeral. Unless Im burying my mother I would still probably wear a navy suit.
Medium/Royal Blue. Jcrew has a very nice Caspian blue cotton, unlined, soft shouldered thing of beauty.
Would either go Light Grey or yet another shade of blue, maybe a hopsack, something very visually interesting, maybe flannel blue, thick and fuzzy, or silk/linen slubby summer suit in blue.
The reason I prefer grey to blue for initial suits is that grey will literally go with anything, but blue will not. If I could only have 4 suits, I would take to shades of grey over two shades of blue. I might have agreed with you two years ago, but after years of wearing at least a jacket most days, I actually find myself wishing for more grey suits more often than I feel the need for more blue.
Blue is very nice though and once you go past 4 suits, it's a great colour to have multiples shades of.
Quote: (03-22-2016 10:12 AM)C-Note Wrote:
Great guide. I think you might have mentioned it above, but I've found that you can get away with repeated wearing of one navy and one gray suit by having a large selection of solid and patterned shirts, ties, and pocket squares. If you mix up the patterns and colors of those three things, people rarely realize that you're wearing the same two suits over and over. Do you agree?
Absolutely.
Quote: (03-22-2016 10:12 AM)C-Note Wrote:
You said that you wouldn't talk about vests, "because you're not 50 years old." I'm not 50 either, but I've found that wearing a three-piece suit in many situations looks better than just the two pieces. It adds more depth and refinement to your look. Also, in the office or on a hot day you can take off the suit coat, roll up your shirtsleeves, and still look like you're wearing a suit by keeping the vest on. Furthermore, by sometimes wearing and sometimes not wearing your vest, it provides more versatility by giving the impression that you have more than one or two suits.
It's actually a bit of a joke, although partially true. The truth is that I have no experience with vests (because I've decided to wait till I'm older to give them a shot) and am not qualified to comment.
The points you make are true and I've definitely given vests some though, but ultimately ended up deciding that I wasn't 50 years of age yet.
Quote: (03-22-2016 10:12 AM)C-Note Wrote:
I second what you say about getting a suit with a textured weave. The textured weave is what seems to distinguish quality suits from cheap ones. Even though it's still a solid color, the weave gives a depth to the cloth that can't be matched by cheaper materials and is one of the reasons why I think it's worth it to go to the made-to-measure or bespoke tailor for your suit rather than off-the-rack from J.Crew or Brooks Brothers (besides the perfect fit you get by the former).
Completely true.
Quote: (03-22-2016 11:50 AM)Gustavus Adolphus Wrote:
I did pretty much the exact same first four, except an olive w/pattern fabric for my fourth, not black. Grey, Charcoal, Navy. Works great.
Nothing wrong with that. I personally recommend black as a fourth option that would be as obvious if you wear it regularly, but there's nothing horrible about having a patterned olive suit if you're willing to keep it in the closet most of the time.
Quote: (03-22-2016 05:13 PM)Ethan Hunt Wrote:
I do have two additional suits that aren't included in above. But I don't like them very much so considering throwing them away. A black and bright blue. Both really shiny and look like they're made of plastic. The bright blue one I wore at halloween and have fake blood plastered over it. They both seem too tight as well.
Yes, get rid of them. Or alternatively, save them for costume parties.
Quote: (03-22-2016 10:49 PM)Chowder Head Wrote:
Suits, what suit brands and/or store do you like?
All of my suits are bespoke. Find a good tailor or come visit me and China and put an order in at the shop I use.
Quote: (03-22-2016 10:49 PM)Chowder Head Wrote:
Do you like hats with suits?
Yes, but this is a controversial subject and I don't want to lead anyone astray.
Quote: (03-23-2016 02:34 AM)Adrenaline Wrote:
Do you think suit jackets are better suited to certain body types (tall, skinny) and some men look better without the jacket? I feel as if I can't get the jacket to fit right or look good because of my broad shoulders. Plus, I don't like the fact that wearing a jacket hides a muscular build, which obviously help to attract women. I find myself more comfortable pulling off dress pants, dress shoes and a fitted shirt, without jackets, blazers etc.
I think others have already answered your question better than I, as a skinny dude, would be able to.