[Kona]

(08-28-2010 08:08 PM)gringoed Wrote:  

That sounds awesome! Are you in Brazil yet?

Got back a few days ago, and go back in a couple weeks.

I have stuck with my plan all the way. The best part is the no meat. I feel freaking fantastic. Maybe it's because I been in the water so much, I don't know, but I think it's the diet.

At first I thought it was gonna be tough in Brazil, but I just chilled on Icarai beach and swam my guts out. They have good fish over there, so the eating part wasn't an issue. I couldn't believe how much places I found that sold star fruit. People were asking why the brown guy was floating around reading books. Then I played volleyball with them, which is freaking popular over there.

I didn't see a damn wave anywhere in Brazil but didn't get to far out of my area. There's none by my house right now except at night, and I've hit those a little but they're getting smaller and coming up a little in the daytime, so it's kind of evenly small. I did however go to some west Oahu spots with waves yesterday and Monday, and I swear I have never surfed better. I also saw some Australians at the bar the day at I got back that were sponsored pros getting ready for the season. Me and some guys just gave them the stare and they kept to themselves. One started walking like he was gonna ask me something but I just turned my back and ignored him.

Like I said I really think it's the diet. My balance and my overall flow on a board are just fucking solid right now?

Aloha!