Quote: (11-11-2012 01:03 AM)Veloce Wrote:
Alright, I was considering posting this in the "Culinary Game" thread but I figured, fuckit, this is something you make for yourself, not some ho. I know Gmanifesto threw down a data sheet on cooking a steak, but here's a professional's method. (Disclaimer: given a choice, I would cook a steak over hardwood in a weber. Not charcoal, but actual untreated firewood from a lumber yard. Given that I don't have one at home or at work, I pan roast)
Step 1: Preheat your pan. It should be heavy as shit. I recommend a Lodge cast-iron. Generously season your steak with salt and freshly cracked pepper. If you're a fancy fuck like me, use gray salt from Geurande and Tellicherry peppercorns in your pepper mill.
![[Image: tumblr_mdb67ah54h1rkla7mo1_250.jpg]](https://24.media.tumblr.com/tumblr_mdb67ah54h1rkla7mo1_250.jpg)
Step 2: Add your cooking fat, and don't be stingy. You want a solid layer of oil on the bottom of the pan. I use rice bran oil, but coconut and peanut oil work well with high temperature cooking as well. Olive oil does not. Once the oil start to smoke lightly, get the bitch in.
![[Image: tumblr_mdb67ah54h1rkla7mo3_250.jpg]](https://24.media.tumblr.com/tumblr_mdb67ah54h1rkla7mo3_250.jpg)
Step 3: Start flipping. Ignore that bullshit about "only flip once". Think about a rotisserie. You have a heat source and you want to expose all the surfaces of the meat as many times as possible to ensure even cooking. Moving the meat around will not "lose more juices" as conventional wives tales will tell you. I flip about once per minute. If your heat is high enough and you've got enough fat, you'll start to get good browning (also known as Maillard reactions)
![[Image: tumblr_mdb67ah54h1rkla7mo4_250.jpg]](https://24.media.tumblr.com/tumblr_mdb67ah54h1rkla7mo4_250.jpg)
Step 4:
![[Image: tumblr_mdb67ah54h1rkla7mo2_250.jpg]](https://25.media.tumblr.com/tumblr_mdb67ah54h1rkla7mo2_250.jpg)
That's right, butter. Rather than get in some limp-wristed argument about adding excess saturated fat to an already fatty cut of meat, I'm just going to state that basting with butter produces incomparable results and flavor due to the browning milk solids that cling to the meat. It's a rich, nutty flavor that I wouldn't want to go without. Cut saturated fat out of your diet elsewhere, but not here. Get a couple tablespoons of butter in the pan, a smashed clove of garlic, and a sprig of thyme (I didn't have any tonight but normally I would) Baste the steak with the browning butter. You'll notice it foaming up; this is normal and what you want. Total cooking time at this point is between 6-8 minutes.
![[Image: tumblr_mdb67ah54h1rkla7mo5_250.jpg]](https://25.media.tumblr.com/tumblr_mdb67ah54h1rkla7mo5_250.jpg)
Step 5: Rest. I don't tent with foil or any of that other fanciness. If you're serving other side dishes and worried about timing, I'd simply leave the steak in a super low oven, just make sure it's around 100 degrees and no more. Usually when I make a steak I eat it by itself though. I feel the steak regularly and when I know it's the right temperature, that is, warm but not too hot, I know it's ready to eat or slice for presentation. Notice the deep color and crust. This is not to "seal in the juices" which is another antiquated notion, it's all for flavor baby, there's nothing better tasting than a dark, deep sear or grill on a steak.
![[Image: tumblr_mdb67ah54h1rkla7mo6_250.jpg]](https://24.media.tumblr.com/tumblr_mdb67ah54h1rkla7mo6_250.jpg)
Step 6: eat, or slice and present. Here I've added a swirl of 25 year old balsamic. Shit ain't cheap, about $150 for a 100ml bottle, but I got the hookups yo. Don't bother with anything cheaper, don't bother with "balsamic reduction" whatever the fuck that is. If you don't have this stuff, just eat your steak plain or with some bearnaise or a good red wine sauce. If you can't make a 5-star sauce though, don't bother. If it's a good cut of meat you don't need sauce. I'm a fan of the aged balsamic with a few shavings of parmigiano reggiano and a few arugula leaves, but again not everyone has that kind of access. Everyone has different ideas of what medium rare is: in these photos I'm slightly on the rare side of medium-rare; a true medium rare shouldn't have quite so much red in the middle but for a well marbled steak this is exactly how i like it. I just got done eating it and let me tell you I barely had to chew the goddamn meat and the flavor was top-notch. This meat is from Creekstone Farms (not prime, but this stuff has great flavor). Oh yeah make sure to slice it with a badass old Sabatier like the one in the pic, shit makes you look like a kitchen pirate.
![[Image: tumblr_mdb67ah54h1rkla7mo7_250.jpg]](https://25.media.tumblr.com/tumblr_mdb67ah54h1rkla7mo7_250.jpg)
Enjoy. Cooking and eating a steak, by itself, is one of a guy's greatest pleasures. Drink with the most expensive Bordeaux or Barolo you can afford. Skip the california reds, shit is way too fruity to pair with red meat.
A lot of good points here Veloce, let me just add a few more, with a different approach, which workss well for those who have a stainless steel pan:
The fat:
-Bacon alters the beef taste. I love my pork fat in the morning or for brunch, it's great to fry eggs in after you fry your bacon, but it's not ideal for steak.
-vegetable fats like coconut or olive also have their own taste and will affect the meat taste, avoid. Extra virgin olive oil is not meant to be used at high temperatures, it will decompose into an artery-clogging compound, you'd be better off with butter or even bacon fat.
The only acceptable vegetable fat might be grapeseed oil, neutral taste and high smoke point.
-But butter is the best for flavor. If you use clarified butter (just microwave till liquid, then remove the solid stuff at the top), your butter won't burn in the pan.
The frying process:
I used the French method, with stainless steel. Start with temperature on high and a hot pan to get a good sear (not too hot though), throw the clarified butter in (about 1-2 tblspns), then the steak (seasoned with just salt and coarse pepper) right after the butter is melted and hot.
After the meat is seared about 1-2 minutes into the process, reduce the heat to med-high without moving the steak. Then about 3-4 minutes later (depending on the thickness and desired doneness) raise the heat a bit for a minute, flip steak over, to the other part of the pan, which will be hotter than the part where your steak was (don't put the steak in the middle of the pan to start with), then lower again to med-high.
Add diced french shallots to the pan next to your steak. Remove steak once it's done (i use the finger test, poking the meat to find out about its doneness) and "reserve", or set aside (leaving the shallots in the pan) and let cool 5-10min in order for the fibers to reabsorb the meat juices. If you cut the meat right away, it will bleed itself dry.
Now for the fun part:
the deglazing. You basically want all that caramelized meat goodness from the pan into your plate, so you add about 1/3-1/2 a cup of red wine into the pan and reduce at med heat till it thickens a bit. You can use cognac too, or brandy, but a good red wine works well too.
Deglazing captures all the tasty goodness in the pan into a great sauce.
If you want a full-on steak au poivre sauce, you can add more coarsely crushed peppercorns, and towards the end, once the wine has reduced enough, some
creme fraiche or heavy cream and whip it in into the wine reduction, stirring ta bit for just a minute over the fire, set on low. You don't want the cream sauce to cook too long or on high fire, it will fall apart.
If you want a restaurant-grade steak au poivre sauce, add some veal stock along with the red wine. If you don't have heavy cream or don't want to for health reasons, the wine reduction works well without the cream.
You can also make a mushroom sauce, instead of shallots, add sliced mushrooms to the pan after you take out your steak, then once they're nearly done, add the red wine to deglaze. The mushroom version works better if you add the cream.
-The wine:
I agree with Veloce about most CA red wines being too fruity, but you can get some decent Napa Cabernets or Zins as well as Bordeaux, which are all great but also a bit on the pricy side.
If you want a great budget red that's still top flight and pairs really well with steaks, go for a
Cahors, from the southwest of France. It's mostly made with Malbec varietal, has a deep dark purple color.
Some argentinian malbecs will also work, though many of those can be in the new world red style (too fruity and soft, they're wines for people who don't drink wine) and won't stand up to grilled beef.
You can find a really good Cahors for about $10-$15, vs 2 to 4 times as much for a prime Oakville/Rutherford area Napa Cabernet.
-The sides:
For a quick no-fuss side, I microwave potatoes, let them sit for a while (cook them first before you start on the steak) so that the residual heat has the time to thoroughly cook them, then cut them in big chunks and give them a toss into the pan used to fry the steak. Same with a side of steamed green beans and carrots.
I also like steamed broccoli, but don't give them a run in the steak pan, it turns a bit bitter if fried, unlike string beans.
Alternatively you can make french fries (peanut oil is best there). The best way is to double-fry them, it's also very practical because you will have done most of the cooking beforehand. The first frying run on med high cooks the inside, you take them out before they brown, and the potatoes will continue to cook with the residual heat. The second run is mostly for crisping the outside, done quickly at higher heat.