I had been working the cubicle grind for a couple years, but I always dreamed of going to Alaska. I wanted to experience another way of life, experience adventure on the edge of civilization, and experience the unknown. Alaska is a HUGE place, and can be very different from one region to the next. Most of my time has been spent in the Arctic in an area only accessible by small plane. It is a life-changing experience, and you will become a different person.
This post is intended to be a general overview of what it is like. Some areas like hunting and fishing would require a separate, more detailed post, so I tried to keep those as general as possible.
Weather-
In the Arctic you have 8 months of winter and 4 months of no summer. In the summer there might be a week of really hot weather, but for the most part you will always be wearing a sweatshirt. There's very little rain (the American Southwest gets more rain than up here). In the summer you get days with 24 hours of sunlight, and this can make it hard to sleep, so you will need to buy blackout curtains. Your body doesn't get tired, and it keeps telling you to go, go, go until you hit a wall and crash to sleep. You have a year's worth of experiences and activities in the summer because there is so much to do outdoors. In the winter everything is frozen solid and it gets COLD. It's amazing life even survived up here and continues to survive up here. It can hit -60 degrees Fahrenheit, and gets even colder with wind chill (with some wind it can hit -100). It feels like hell, a cold hell. I tell people it feels like being poked by tiny needles. The constant darkness can beat you down, and I try to take lots of D3 to make up for the lack of sunlight. The only advantage of the darkness is that it is really easy to sleep.
Gear-
You will need to upgrade your wardrobe to survive the cold, and everything is function over style. You can get through the summer with pretty much anything, but you need to prepare for winter, and winter is always around the corner. The key to keeping warm in the winter is to layer, layer, and layer.
You will need a good coat. The most common coat I see is the Canada Goose brand. They will keep you warm and cost around $600. I wanted something custom made to fit me, so I went with Apocalypse Design in Fairbanks. It is a tiny store, but their coats are the best you can get for the extreme cold. It's expensive ($700), and you feel like a giant marshmallow walking around, but you will not be cold! I use my Apocalypse coat for extreme trips and when I will be outside for more than an hour. If it is less than that I have a light Columbia jacket that works fine for short bursts outside.
You will also need a pair of bibs / coveralls. Everyone has the Carhartt Extremes Arctic Quilt bibs. Order a couple sizes too big as you will be wearing layers and need to fit inside.
For boots most people wear some form of muck or bunny boots. I never could find bunny boots that could fit me, so I went with the most extreme Baffin boots I could find. However, they were too heavy, so then I went with the Muck Boot Co and got the Arctic Pro. They are awesome at keeping you warm, but not very comfortable for long walks (rubs back of your foot raw). When it's not as cold (so around -20) I go with winter shoes made by Merrell. They keep you warm and it's nice for when you are trying to drive vehicles and need to feel the pedals.
For your hands you need to get a high quality pair of mittens. Gloves will not work. I don't know what the science is behind it, but your hands will be warmer inside a pair of mittens vs gloves. You can however, get some light gloves to wear under the mittens. You will wear the mittens for quick walks outside or going to and from different places or buildings. If you are ice fishing, driving a dog team, riding snow machine, or hunting and trapping, you will really want to upgrade to giant moose hide beaver mittens ($400, get these in a village from an old woman who sews). They are huge and will make you look like bigfoot walking around, but they will keep you warm in the most extreme conditions, especially if you wear in combination with thin gloves underneath and throw in a hand warmer (it will actually get too hot with the hand warmer).
Hat- this one is important. You must get a fur hat. Commercial materials do not even come close to competing in this arena. It must cover your ears, the top of your head, and come down to your forehead. To an outsider they will look kind of funny, but you will have that stylish 1680's look going on and will be able to stay warm at the same time. Fur will also keep you dry and stops the wind. I've been through an awful week-long rain storm right before winter and my head stayed warm and try, even though I looked like I was wearing a wet cat on my head. To compare, I went out one time in a wind storm with commercial gear, and within a few minutes I had to go back because my head was burning from the cold. I switched into my fur hat and was fine. For all of those who are against using animals for fur, you probably live in a warm climate.
Key places to shop for clothes and gear in Fairbanks-
Prospector's (my favorite)
Big Ray's
Beaver Sports
None of those places sell furs. You have to get it in the village or stop at one of the fur shops in town.
Flights-
Travel can be very complicated, and depending on where you are at, you may have to take two different flights just to get from the village into Fairbanks or Anchorage. Some of the airlines that service the villages do not have updated websites, and it can be very difficult to plan out your trip without talking to someone on the ground. Also, the flight schedule and flight times can be somewhat unpredictable, so you need to be ready at a moment's notice to run to the airstrip. The plane's don't wait for you and will leave you behind. I've seen people stranded because their flight came a couple hours early and they had no idea. There may only be one flight a day to your village, and nothing on the weekends, and if there is inclement weather you may get no flights at all for a short period. Total travel time from where you live to lower 48 will be around 1.5 to 2 days each way, most likely with a hotel layover. In many cases your flight out from the village to Anchorage / Fairbanks will cost more than your flight to the lower 48. Connections will never match up and you will have awful departing times or arrival times. Most flights out of Alaska dump into SeaTac, so that will be your jumping board to anywhere else in the world.
Another tip for the small airplanes- bring earplugs!!! You will slowly damage your hearing if you don't protect your ears.
If you are flying to a village from the Fairbanks hub and have to stay overnight, I always stay at Sophie Station or Pike's. Pike's has more of a lodge feel to it, but Sophie Station has a 24hr shuttle and is right next to Fred Meyer so you can stock up on food. Sep 15 to May 15 is winter rate (around $80 a night). In the summer the rates are significantly higher ($160 or more). I'm not as familiar with Anchorage, but I do know it is more expensive for hotels compared to Fairbanks, and has a shorter "winter rate" window.
Hair-
It's like the big rocker hair of the 1980's never went out of style, and it is culturally acceptable for men to have long hair. And besides, there won't be anyone to cut your hair so you might as well grow it out. You did come up here to be a mountain man right??
Infrastructure-
There's not a lot out in the villages. The airport will be a gravel landing strip at the edge of the village. There will be some trails and gravel roads and that's it. No hotels, no gyms, no bus lines, no taxis, and nowhere to eat. You're on your own. If you have employer housing available it will take care of all your problems and you can have a comfortable existence. Some places have limited cell phone coverage or no coverage at all, and you are lucky if you can get Internet. Internet in the bush is 1) satellite based, 2) slow, and 3) expensive. You will disconnect and unplug from the world. The villages have diesel or biomass generators for power generation, but expect frequent power outages at the worst possible times. Some villages have running water, but many don't. If you are in a village that does not have running water it will be a very difficult experience. People will not shower every day and will wear the same outfit for days at a time. If you have running water and don't have to use an outhouse at -60 you will feel like you are living a life of luxury.
Money-
No one comes to Alaska because they love the weather. They come for the opportunities, the outdoors and freedom, and / or the money. The major job opportunities in the villages are-
Government / administration
School teacher (high wages, great health insurance, average pension)
Healthcare provider (high demand, especially in rural areas)
Public safety
Technical trade (mechanic, electrician)
It is very difficult to find good, qualified people to work in the bush, but even then, most employers in Alaska want to hire someone with Alaskan experience. I've seen lots of people from the outside that come up with romanticized views of what it will be like, and they don't last very long. If you can accept beforehand that it's going to be rough and really shitty, then you'll be able to survive.
If the village experience isn't your thing, then you can always find a job in the tourist or coastal fishing industry, but I'm pretty far from the coast and not in a tourist area so can't help with those.
Many people in the villages work on the North Slope in the oil industry. They make great money and work two weeks on and two weeks off, but with the downturn there have been lots of layoffs. However, there's also a lot of turnover, which means that there's always a job opening up. Most of the oil jobs are based in Prudhoe Bay or Anchorage. This is a good website to check and you can drill down your search by industry, such as oil and gas-
https://alexsys.dol.alaska.gov/Default.aspx
Banking-
You will be stepping back 50 years here. Everything is cash based. I always carry at least $2K on me. Also, bring small bills- $1, $5, and $10 denominations. If you don't have exact change and you are buying something, you will never get the rest of your money back. The village store may accept credit/debit card if the phone line is working. No one takes checks as there is no easy way to cash them.
Food-
Alaska is in a league of its own when it comes to the cost of food. You are at the end of the line, so your food selection is pretty limited, and the food that is available is not fresh. If you are really lucky the village store (if there is even a store) might carry a small selection of vegetables, but most of the smaller places only sell junk food, canned food, soda pop, and cigarettes, and the prices are simply prohibitive...a little bag of walnuts is $40, a little half melon is $16, a head of cabbage is $10, and apple is $3. I never had cabbage in my life, and now that's all I eat. If you have Internet you can order dried fruits from Amazon and have it shipped to the Post Office. If you require regular food and food selection you can do a "bush order" from Fred Meyer and they will box up some food and get it on a plane to be sent out to the village, but it is expensive. I've never done the bush order because I didn't want to deal with the hassle- you have to meet the plane on the landing strip, and if you're not there your box will be left on the ground and the plane will leave, and then anyone in the village can walk off with it.
Hunting and fishing-
Both of these require their own detailed post, but I'll give a general one here. I use one gun and one type of bullet, otherwise the logistics of keeping your own private armory will be too much. I settled on 30-06 with 180 grain bullets. I use the same gun and same type of ammo for everything- regardless if it is beaver, bear, or moose. You don't want to have to check your scope just because you are switching to a different bullet grain, so it is easiest to keep it consistent. Most guns in the bush are open sight / iron sight because of reliability (scopes can break or fog up). Bring all your ammo with you too, you won't be able to buy what you need in the village.
For duck, goose, and small game hunting, you will want a pump action 12 gauge. Do not bring an auto-loader. You will get it jammed in the field.
After 1 year you become a resident for hunting and fishing purposes (for most other states the timeframe is 6 months). Also, once you hit the 1 year mark in a rural area, special subsistence hunting and fishing rights will be open for you. You will need to find a local to take you hunting as you won't have the gear or knowledge to hunt in the bush, and as an outsider, there are certain cultural boundaries you need to respect, and if you are hunting with a local you will be accepted and people will open up to you. In many places in the lower 48, hunting is a hobby or a weekend activity, but up here it is a way of life.
I have never fished up here with a rod and reel, and I have never seen the locals fishing like that either. There is no such thing as leisure fishing, or catch and release...it's catch and keep. Most of the Native fishing is done using nets or fishwheels. You can be the most educated person in the world, but you will feel like a dumbass the first time you try and set a giant, tangled net from a boat in a swift river, and after a few times you will start to feel like MacGyver as you tie things off and set knots and constantly improvise with whatever resources are around you. You should buy a book about how to tie knots and practice- most people can hardly tie their own shoes. You will use different knots for setting up camp, hanging meat, drying fish, setting net, tying off the boat, so it's good to have a knot for any situation that comes up.
Women-
This is the major drawback of the bush. I've seen a few gems, but smoking and drinking takes a heavy toll. It's a hard life, and I've seen some messed up stuff go on. The women are fighters and are generally pretty ornery, and I've even seen the women beat up the men! There isn't a culture of marriage, and you see a lot of cohabitation. They start having kids young, and it's not a thing for the men to drop out of the picture before the child is even born. You see a lot of inter-generational living and grandparents taking care of their children and grand children. When you fly back into town you will have serious beer goggles and every woman looks attractive, even if she's not.
Final thoughts-
The bush experience isn't for everyone. You have to be comfortable being uncomfortable. Life is survival oriented and nothing else matters. You get by with less and without the luxuries. You'll make some good friends, but everyone is a little crazy. You learn patience and little things no longer upset you. You see food as a valuable possession and is something that takes a lot of time and effort to obtain. You learn how to hunt and how to take care of your meat. You have no choice but to learn how to cook. You learn independence, survival skills, and how to rely on yourself. You learn what it means to be a part of a real community bound together by the physical isolation. You'll develop a taste for strange foods that people back home would think you are crazy for eating. If the bush is too much for you, then you could always try for one of the pipeline / oil field jobs or try to find something in one of the major cities where you can have a "normal" life and still have the last frontier right at your doorstep.
This post is intended to be a general overview of what it is like. Some areas like hunting and fishing would require a separate, more detailed post, so I tried to keep those as general as possible.
Weather-
In the Arctic you have 8 months of winter and 4 months of no summer. In the summer there might be a week of really hot weather, but for the most part you will always be wearing a sweatshirt. There's very little rain (the American Southwest gets more rain than up here). In the summer you get days with 24 hours of sunlight, and this can make it hard to sleep, so you will need to buy blackout curtains. Your body doesn't get tired, and it keeps telling you to go, go, go until you hit a wall and crash to sleep. You have a year's worth of experiences and activities in the summer because there is so much to do outdoors. In the winter everything is frozen solid and it gets COLD. It's amazing life even survived up here and continues to survive up here. It can hit -60 degrees Fahrenheit, and gets even colder with wind chill (with some wind it can hit -100). It feels like hell, a cold hell. I tell people it feels like being poked by tiny needles. The constant darkness can beat you down, and I try to take lots of D3 to make up for the lack of sunlight. The only advantage of the darkness is that it is really easy to sleep.
Gear-
You will need to upgrade your wardrobe to survive the cold, and everything is function over style. You can get through the summer with pretty much anything, but you need to prepare for winter, and winter is always around the corner. The key to keeping warm in the winter is to layer, layer, and layer.
You will need a good coat. The most common coat I see is the Canada Goose brand. They will keep you warm and cost around $600. I wanted something custom made to fit me, so I went with Apocalypse Design in Fairbanks. It is a tiny store, but their coats are the best you can get for the extreme cold. It's expensive ($700), and you feel like a giant marshmallow walking around, but you will not be cold! I use my Apocalypse coat for extreme trips and when I will be outside for more than an hour. If it is less than that I have a light Columbia jacket that works fine for short bursts outside.
You will also need a pair of bibs / coveralls. Everyone has the Carhartt Extremes Arctic Quilt bibs. Order a couple sizes too big as you will be wearing layers and need to fit inside.
For boots most people wear some form of muck or bunny boots. I never could find bunny boots that could fit me, so I went with the most extreme Baffin boots I could find. However, they were too heavy, so then I went with the Muck Boot Co and got the Arctic Pro. They are awesome at keeping you warm, but not very comfortable for long walks (rubs back of your foot raw). When it's not as cold (so around -20) I go with winter shoes made by Merrell. They keep you warm and it's nice for when you are trying to drive vehicles and need to feel the pedals.
For your hands you need to get a high quality pair of mittens. Gloves will not work. I don't know what the science is behind it, but your hands will be warmer inside a pair of mittens vs gloves. You can however, get some light gloves to wear under the mittens. You will wear the mittens for quick walks outside or going to and from different places or buildings. If you are ice fishing, driving a dog team, riding snow machine, or hunting and trapping, you will really want to upgrade to giant moose hide beaver mittens ($400, get these in a village from an old woman who sews). They are huge and will make you look like bigfoot walking around, but they will keep you warm in the most extreme conditions, especially if you wear in combination with thin gloves underneath and throw in a hand warmer (it will actually get too hot with the hand warmer).
Hat- this one is important. You must get a fur hat. Commercial materials do not even come close to competing in this arena. It must cover your ears, the top of your head, and come down to your forehead. To an outsider they will look kind of funny, but you will have that stylish 1680's look going on and will be able to stay warm at the same time. Fur will also keep you dry and stops the wind. I've been through an awful week-long rain storm right before winter and my head stayed warm and try, even though I looked like I was wearing a wet cat on my head. To compare, I went out one time in a wind storm with commercial gear, and within a few minutes I had to go back because my head was burning from the cold. I switched into my fur hat and was fine. For all of those who are against using animals for fur, you probably live in a warm climate.
Key places to shop for clothes and gear in Fairbanks-
Prospector's (my favorite)
Big Ray's
Beaver Sports
None of those places sell furs. You have to get it in the village or stop at one of the fur shops in town.
Flights-
Travel can be very complicated, and depending on where you are at, you may have to take two different flights just to get from the village into Fairbanks or Anchorage. Some of the airlines that service the villages do not have updated websites, and it can be very difficult to plan out your trip without talking to someone on the ground. Also, the flight schedule and flight times can be somewhat unpredictable, so you need to be ready at a moment's notice to run to the airstrip. The plane's don't wait for you and will leave you behind. I've seen people stranded because their flight came a couple hours early and they had no idea. There may only be one flight a day to your village, and nothing on the weekends, and if there is inclement weather you may get no flights at all for a short period. Total travel time from where you live to lower 48 will be around 1.5 to 2 days each way, most likely with a hotel layover. In many cases your flight out from the village to Anchorage / Fairbanks will cost more than your flight to the lower 48. Connections will never match up and you will have awful departing times or arrival times. Most flights out of Alaska dump into SeaTac, so that will be your jumping board to anywhere else in the world.
Another tip for the small airplanes- bring earplugs!!! You will slowly damage your hearing if you don't protect your ears.
If you are flying to a village from the Fairbanks hub and have to stay overnight, I always stay at Sophie Station or Pike's. Pike's has more of a lodge feel to it, but Sophie Station has a 24hr shuttle and is right next to Fred Meyer so you can stock up on food. Sep 15 to May 15 is winter rate (around $80 a night). In the summer the rates are significantly higher ($160 or more). I'm not as familiar with Anchorage, but I do know it is more expensive for hotels compared to Fairbanks, and has a shorter "winter rate" window.
Hair-
It's like the big rocker hair of the 1980's never went out of style, and it is culturally acceptable for men to have long hair. And besides, there won't be anyone to cut your hair so you might as well grow it out. You did come up here to be a mountain man right??
Infrastructure-
There's not a lot out in the villages. The airport will be a gravel landing strip at the edge of the village. There will be some trails and gravel roads and that's it. No hotels, no gyms, no bus lines, no taxis, and nowhere to eat. You're on your own. If you have employer housing available it will take care of all your problems and you can have a comfortable existence. Some places have limited cell phone coverage or no coverage at all, and you are lucky if you can get Internet. Internet in the bush is 1) satellite based, 2) slow, and 3) expensive. You will disconnect and unplug from the world. The villages have diesel or biomass generators for power generation, but expect frequent power outages at the worst possible times. Some villages have running water, but many don't. If you are in a village that does not have running water it will be a very difficult experience. People will not shower every day and will wear the same outfit for days at a time. If you have running water and don't have to use an outhouse at -60 you will feel like you are living a life of luxury.
Money-
No one comes to Alaska because they love the weather. They come for the opportunities, the outdoors and freedom, and / or the money. The major job opportunities in the villages are-
Government / administration
School teacher (high wages, great health insurance, average pension)
Healthcare provider (high demand, especially in rural areas)
Public safety
Technical trade (mechanic, electrician)
It is very difficult to find good, qualified people to work in the bush, but even then, most employers in Alaska want to hire someone with Alaskan experience. I've seen lots of people from the outside that come up with romanticized views of what it will be like, and they don't last very long. If you can accept beforehand that it's going to be rough and really shitty, then you'll be able to survive.
If the village experience isn't your thing, then you can always find a job in the tourist or coastal fishing industry, but I'm pretty far from the coast and not in a tourist area so can't help with those.
Many people in the villages work on the North Slope in the oil industry. They make great money and work two weeks on and two weeks off, but with the downturn there have been lots of layoffs. However, there's also a lot of turnover, which means that there's always a job opening up. Most of the oil jobs are based in Prudhoe Bay or Anchorage. This is a good website to check and you can drill down your search by industry, such as oil and gas-
https://alexsys.dol.alaska.gov/Default.aspx
Banking-
You will be stepping back 50 years here. Everything is cash based. I always carry at least $2K on me. Also, bring small bills- $1, $5, and $10 denominations. If you don't have exact change and you are buying something, you will never get the rest of your money back. The village store may accept credit/debit card if the phone line is working. No one takes checks as there is no easy way to cash them.
Food-
Alaska is in a league of its own when it comes to the cost of food. You are at the end of the line, so your food selection is pretty limited, and the food that is available is not fresh. If you are really lucky the village store (if there is even a store) might carry a small selection of vegetables, but most of the smaller places only sell junk food, canned food, soda pop, and cigarettes, and the prices are simply prohibitive...a little bag of walnuts is $40, a little half melon is $16, a head of cabbage is $10, and apple is $3. I never had cabbage in my life, and now that's all I eat. If you have Internet you can order dried fruits from Amazon and have it shipped to the Post Office. If you require regular food and food selection you can do a "bush order" from Fred Meyer and they will box up some food and get it on a plane to be sent out to the village, but it is expensive. I've never done the bush order because I didn't want to deal with the hassle- you have to meet the plane on the landing strip, and if you're not there your box will be left on the ground and the plane will leave, and then anyone in the village can walk off with it.
Hunting and fishing-
Both of these require their own detailed post, but I'll give a general one here. I use one gun and one type of bullet, otherwise the logistics of keeping your own private armory will be too much. I settled on 30-06 with 180 grain bullets. I use the same gun and same type of ammo for everything- regardless if it is beaver, bear, or moose. You don't want to have to check your scope just because you are switching to a different bullet grain, so it is easiest to keep it consistent. Most guns in the bush are open sight / iron sight because of reliability (scopes can break or fog up). Bring all your ammo with you too, you won't be able to buy what you need in the village.
For duck, goose, and small game hunting, you will want a pump action 12 gauge. Do not bring an auto-loader. You will get it jammed in the field.
After 1 year you become a resident for hunting and fishing purposes (for most other states the timeframe is 6 months). Also, once you hit the 1 year mark in a rural area, special subsistence hunting and fishing rights will be open for you. You will need to find a local to take you hunting as you won't have the gear or knowledge to hunt in the bush, and as an outsider, there are certain cultural boundaries you need to respect, and if you are hunting with a local you will be accepted and people will open up to you. In many places in the lower 48, hunting is a hobby or a weekend activity, but up here it is a way of life.
I have never fished up here with a rod and reel, and I have never seen the locals fishing like that either. There is no such thing as leisure fishing, or catch and release...it's catch and keep. Most of the Native fishing is done using nets or fishwheels. You can be the most educated person in the world, but you will feel like a dumbass the first time you try and set a giant, tangled net from a boat in a swift river, and after a few times you will start to feel like MacGyver as you tie things off and set knots and constantly improvise with whatever resources are around you. You should buy a book about how to tie knots and practice- most people can hardly tie their own shoes. You will use different knots for setting up camp, hanging meat, drying fish, setting net, tying off the boat, so it's good to have a knot for any situation that comes up.
Women-
This is the major drawback of the bush. I've seen a few gems, but smoking and drinking takes a heavy toll. It's a hard life, and I've seen some messed up stuff go on. The women are fighters and are generally pretty ornery, and I've even seen the women beat up the men! There isn't a culture of marriage, and you see a lot of cohabitation. They start having kids young, and it's not a thing for the men to drop out of the picture before the child is even born. You see a lot of inter-generational living and grandparents taking care of their children and grand children. When you fly back into town you will have serious beer goggles and every woman looks attractive, even if she's not.
Final thoughts-
The bush experience isn't for everyone. You have to be comfortable being uncomfortable. Life is survival oriented and nothing else matters. You get by with less and without the luxuries. You'll make some good friends, but everyone is a little crazy. You learn patience and little things no longer upset you. You see food as a valuable possession and is something that takes a lot of time and effort to obtain. You learn how to hunt and how to take care of your meat. You have no choice but to learn how to cook. You learn independence, survival skills, and how to rely on yourself. You learn what it means to be a part of a real community bound together by the physical isolation. You'll develop a taste for strange foods that people back home would think you are crazy for eating. If the bush is too much for you, then you could always try for one of the pipeline / oil field jobs or try to find something in one of the major cities where you can have a "normal" life and still have the last frontier right at your doorstep.