[Cattle Rustler]

You can get the Haynes manuals for free if you look around online.

I keep a tablet in my car with the Haynes PDF manual for it.

[AneroidOcean]

(10-08-2014 02:09 PM)oilbreh Wrote:  

here are some other options for people with the catalytic converter problems.

A) Lacquer Thinner - Run some lacquer thinner, 1 quart to 7 gallons of gas, run you car through the tank. Might clean up things up.

B) Remove the catalyric converter and soak/clean it with some heavy duty detergent. If its light enough some compressed air might work.

C) Never tried these, do more research a) Bake it at a really hi temperature b) Carb cleaner through top 02 sensor port. Warning shit might explode if too much.

D) Gut it, or install a blank or just do nothing, then for the second 02 sensor you will have to buy a special thing (really just a resistor I think can make yourself if you really want) that is for "off road use only". Plugs into the post catalytic converter 02 sensor plug and emulates the right reading. Online probably 20 bucks, at a muffler shop maybe 50.

If you read up about what is in catalytic converters, you may not want to option B or C.

There's some nasty shit in car parts/cleaners that you'll have to deal with the more you work on your car, but gutting a cat is just about the worst in terms of direct exposure to nasty shit when there are much better alternatives.

Working on your car can be fun and save you some serious dough. You can also be really hard on your body for not a lot of savings in the end. Make sure you're on the right end of the spectrum before diving in. I've learned the hard way.

[oilbreh]

(10-09-2014 06:08 PM)AneroidOcean Wrote:  

If you read up about what is in catalytic converters, you may not want to option B or C.

There's some nasty shit in car parts/cleaners that you'll have to deal with the more you work on your car, but gutting a cat is just about the worst in terms of direct exposure to nasty shit when there are much better alternatives.

Working on your car can be fun and save you some serious dough. You can also be really hard on your body for not a lot of savings in the end. Make sure you're on the right end of the spectrum before diving in. I've learned the hard way.

wear gloves, problem solved. welders and gas station clerks deal with a much unhealthier environment on a daily basis. Cats are just platinum and other precious metals, they dont store the pollutants, they just convert them through a reaction. Goal is to get the gunk that stuck to it off so the metal is exposed and can do its job. This post just re-affirms my previous post in this thread. Using tools properly you wont have to seriously put out, if you work out you should understand body mechanics. There is a learning curve, most new guys spend way too much time breaking apart stuck parts cause they dont know most of the tricks. Like I said, this shit should have been taught at a young age if out society wasnt so pussified.

[Captain Ahab]

These are awesome responses guys.

Thank you.

I will chew on what was said this weekend as I open my car manual for the first time in ages.

I ordered my socket and ratchet set. I now have all the basic tools needed to get started on learning about my car. I probably won't be tacking on any projects until next month when I can order some parts.

I am thinking about changing the belts as a starter project.

One guy mentioned that changing the oil is a bitch in that it is messy. I still want to know how to do it just for giggles...but chances are I'll be paying someone to do it going forward.

I like how we have a lot of different perspectives on this topic. I am glad I started this thread.

[heavy]

What I know about cars, from easy to hard....sorta

1. Change oil (all car projects are messy, this is the best starter project)

2. Change brakes (pads first, rotors - suggested change with pads - are slightly more work)

3. Belts (sometimes easier than changing brakes, depending on what the belts are weaved around)

4. Bearings (these will go eventually, I've never changed but I've witnessed friend change them)

5. Alternator (usually really easy)

6. A/C pump (I did this on an old Buick...pain in the ass but got er done...didn't fix the air but got the car running)

7. Water pump (I've done with a friend....usually not too bad but messy with coolant. also enter the fun world of gaskets)

8. Plugs n wires (really easy...unless you drive a 2004 Hyundai Santa Fe, which doesn't have wide enough access to the plugs, got a socket stuck trying to get it out, pain in the ass)

42. Adjusting valve clearances (best left to pros...or make sure you know what you're doing)

Note: Any and all are potentially terrible, as in you learn how to problem solve, esp with older rusted cars. Besides the parenthetical notations above....I've had a bolt break getting the tire off. I've had a bolt break getting the brake caliper loose. I've had a bolt break getting the break caliper off. The first simply required driving on 4 studs to get a new bolt. The second required driving to a mechanic with a seized caliper while the rotor got "glowing hot" so he could fix. The last required me driving the (ex) wife's car to a welder with caliper in-hand so he could get it out, then go get a new bolt.

Like my ex-father-in-law, God rest his soul, used to say..."Experience is something you wish would have happened to someone else." All of these experiences happened for me post-25. I wish I'd have learned this shit when I was 15. Of course, best sources are older guys. Even my dad who was never a car guy...I still call him if something goes wrong because, well, he's been driving cars for 45 years and done some, very few, but some of his own fixes.

[germanico]

(10-09-2014 02:14 PM)oilbreh Wrote:  

(10-09-2014 12:33 PM)germanico Wrote:  

since my car is a VW bug and usually uses 2-3 liters of oil per change, Im just keeping it in a 5 gallon jerry can until I find something to do with it.

I hope you are changing the filter also

VW Bug, no filter.

[el mechanico]

(10-10-2014 12:27 PM)germanico Wrote:  

(10-09-2014 02:14 PM)oilbreh Wrote:  

(10-09-2014 12:33 PM)germanico Wrote:  

since my car is a VW bug and usually uses 2-3 liters of oil per change, Im just keeping it in a 5 gallon jerry can until I find something to do with it.

I hope you are changing the filter also

VW Bug, no filter.

It has a screen on the bottom you should clean.

[Gorgiass]

All Toyotas, five at the moment. Just eating lunch in the middle of swapping out a cooling system from my parts truck into another one which was clogged with corrosion. Heater cores are done, that's the hardest part. About to retap for a spark plug the previous owner crossthreaded in (nearly broke on the way out) and do the radiator. Need to swap exhaust also and repair some broken grounds and I'll have a mint truck for half the price it would've cost me to buy fixed up already.

(10-08-2014 07:38 AM)el mechanico Wrote:  

What code did the cat set? P0420?

You can buy the part from discount converters online. You need your own scan tool too..
http://jbtoolsales.com/launch-3010500116...oCsuPw_wcB

(10-08-2014 01:06 PM)DJ-Matt Wrote:  

If you're going to spend the big bucks I'd get one of these as your scan tool, they do so much more:

For OBD 2 vehicles the best bang for your buck is with one of these - http://www.amazon.com/BAFX-Products-Blue...B005NLQAHS

and the "Torque" app (free). Might be Android only, there's probably something similar for Apple. As far as I can tell it gives you more than most scanners costing hundred of dollars for <$25 - stored, current, and pending error codes, fuel trim, MAF rates, tachometer, O2 readings, you name it.

[MrXY]

I'm taking up auto mechanics as a more serious hobby. I've always done this and that on cars but now I'm really taking an interest in it. I want to buy older, cool cars and fix them up. I'm working on a Camaro now and would like to do a Wrangler next. It's really shocking how so many guys, especially younger ones, have almost no knowledge or ability to work on cars. It's a sign of a general loss of masculinity and self sufficiency in the culture.

For guys who do want to at least learn the basics, here are some good beginner skills and projects:

1- Change a tire- I've had maybe a dozen flat tires in my life, including two high speed blowouts, and only once have I had to call a tow truck because of it. An essential skill that will save you time, money and keep you from being stranded.

2- Check your major fluids-engine oil, transmission fluid, coolant, brake fluid, power steering, windshield wiper. Will save you money by preventing wear and damage to parts that lead to breakdowns and major repairs.

3- Use a jack safely, including jack stands and chocks. Can save your life, or at least prevent damage to your car.

4- Change your air filter. A really easy first project that will get you under the hood. Even if you've never done it before, shouldn't take more than 10 minutes.

5-Change your windshield wipers. A lot of people neglect this and let their wipers degrade, leading to poor visibility in the rain. It's not uncommon for people to let the wipers get so worn down that the metal wiper arm scratches the windshield, which is inexcusable. Should be done at least once a year or twice if you're in a sunny or rainy climate like mine. Easy and quick.

6- Change your engine oil- Don't pay those untrustworthy yahoos at the quickie oil change places too much money to do what you can do yourself. Buying one of those oil catching cans makes the process easier and cleaner. Don't forget to change the oil filter each time too. Then take the used oil to a quickie oil change place that offers free disposal as a community service. I change my oil every 4000-5000 miles.

7- Change coolant and flush radiator- Another simple project that will save you money. The only difficulty is having to drop off the used coolant for disposal; most communities have a regular day for this at a collection point. Don't just pour it out; it's polluting and highly toxic to animals. The good thing is the coolant only needs to be changed about every three years.

8-Tire maintenance and inspection- Check your tire pressure and add air as needed. Prevents tire wear and damage and improves handling. I check my pressure about every two weeks. Also look for signs of wear and damage to the tire and replace tires as needed. Learn what the codes on the tire mean.

9- Inspect and change belts and hoses. Look for signs of wear and damage and replace as needed. Hoses generally are pretty easy; belts vary in difficulty. I find serpentine belts to be a real bitch and will have it changed when the car is in the shop for something else.

10- Change spark plugs and wires- a little more advanced than previous projects but still fairly easy. Mostly requires being careful you don't break the plugs or damage the plug threads.

11- Washing, waxing and detailing the exterior and interior. Greatly improves the appearance of your car and prolongs the life of the paint and interior trim and upholstery. You can get very into this if you want, with fancy waxes, strippers,polishes, sealants, glazes, Porter Cable buffers,etc.

What I do is hand wash my cars every 3 weeks or so, including cleaning the rims with a metal polish. I wipe down the interior with an interior cleaner, the seat leather with a leather cleaner, spot clean the cloth parts if needed and vacuum.I use a tire cleaner and blackener as well.As a final touch I rub on Mothers' Showtime Instant Detailer which brings back a freshly waxed look. In between these cleanings I spray wash the car at a coin operated place every 7-10 days and vacuum if needed and apply a light coat of Mother's.

Every 3 months I hand wash, the use auto clay, then polish, then apply 2 coats of wax 24 hours apart and hand buff. I also apply a blackening compound to the black trim. I do the rims and tires as usual, as well as the interior, except that I use a foam upholstery and carpet cleaner on these occasions.

It's important that you use specially made products for this-the right buckets, towels, soap,wax, etc and the correct techniques in order to get the best results and avoid damaging the car. Don't attack your car with dish soap and an old bath towel, and for God's sake don't run it through an automatic car wash, ever. There are plenty of articles and videos online on the subject.

I'm a big believer in keeping my auto glass clean, and I clean my windshields and windows with Rain-X auto glass cleaner at least once a week. About once a month I apply Rain-X exterior and interior products which helps visibility a lot in my rainy climate

As we all know, women are superficial and all about appearances, and having a shiny, clean car really impresses them and I've had a lot of compliments on how nice my cars look. I would keep my cars looking nice anyway, but giving women the idea you have your shit together is a nice bonus

These projects will save you a lot of money, both money paid directly to a mechanic to do them and money saved by preventing major problems with the car from developing. You also decrease your chance of breakdowns on the road and make the car run better, last longer, and drive more safely. None of them are especially time consuming or difficult or require more than basic tools. They should be in every man's repertoire of skills.

[the Thing]

I had close to 20 cars to date, most of them bought second hand and a fair number of them picked out of junk yards, and let me tell you that just regular changes with synthetic oil go a long way.

150k mile Saab 9-5 running strong here. No major failures, just the usual accessory belt, spark plugs, air filter etc.

Most importantly; brand name full synthetic oil every six months/5k miles, filter change and engine flush every 2 changes (or every year)

Drives like new.

[el mechanico]

The thing if you're in Europe i may need something. An Opel engine with rear drive transmission, turbo and wiring harness w/ ECM .

Is that stuff around you?

[MMX2010]

I had to change all six spark plugs and engine wires on my 2002 Buick Century. The engine has three spark plugs in the front, and three in the back; to get at the back three plugs, you have to disconnect the dog bones that connect the front of the engine to the car body, and then find a way to pull the engine forward.

Two ratchet straps, and a second car serving as an anchor, did the trick.

[the Thing]

(05-21-2015 07:23 PM)el mechanico Wrote:  

The thing if you're in Europe i may need something. An Opel engine with rear drive transmission, turbo and wiring harness w/ ECM .

Is that stuff around you?

Hey man. Yes I'm in Europe and I can help you. Only RWD Opel I can think about off the top of my head is the Omega. (= USDM Cadillac Catera) But I think that only came to this country with a 3 liter V6 not a turbo.
If you need all of those you should probably just look for an entire car. You might have better luck looking for it in Germany (try to find a whole car at mobile.de or autoscout24.de) and the main Swedish second hand market is at blocket.se . All Swedish junk yards are registered to a central system and they list everything they have at laga.se and bildelsbasen.se. All these websites as far as I remember are also available in English (except maybe blocket but right click on Chrome -> Translate to English) If you're looking for a specific Opel, post what you're looking for and I can help you, but if it's some Ascona from the 70's my guess is most of the Swedish ones would be in junkyards rusting to death.

If you're not hell bent on the Opel drive line and just want power I recommend the Saab 9000 Turbo. In Sweden you can get a running one for around $1000 (I mean I can take some cash out from an ATM and go buy one right now, its that common) and the Saab B234 engine is the 1JZ of the 4-cylinder world. The stock block is good up to 500 hp and the engine management is well documented, very easy to re-program and has great user-developed tools for free. It's very common for engine swaps around here, I've seen one in a classic Porsche 911.
Another common build is to get the bottom end from a B234 and bolt a B235 cylinder head from a Saab 9-5 on it. 9000 bottom end is stronger, 9-5 head flows better. Just with off the shelf parts, no fabrication needed. I recommend you look at it if you don't mind fabbing up engine mounts and other small things. I was planning to drop one in a 96 Opel Astra convertible for the summer, I found a clean Astra 'vert minus an engine for cheap and they're the same platform so it bolts right up, but it was at the other end of the country so I figured "eh fuck it" just gonna get a Miata instead.

[el mechanico]

I think it's a 2.0 Astra? I'm restoring an Opel Gt and don't want to put non Opel stuff in it for value and purity.

Do you have them there? I can find an alternate Trans but would need the harness intact an ECM

[the Thing]

(05-21-2015 08:57 PM)el mechanico Wrote:  

I think it's a 2.0 Astra? I'm restoring an Opel Gt and don't want to put non Opel stuff in it for value and purity.

Do you have them there? I can find an alternate Trans but would need the harness intact an ECM

Yeah there should be a few. All Astras came in transverse FWD though, so its (1) bring your own tranny and (2) you might run into clearance issues mounting it lengthwise.

You probably want one of the Z20LE engines from early-mid 2000s, the only one I could find was Z20LER which is 200hp. This one from a Zafira sells for $2100 and it apparently starts runs and has good compression. I couldn't find the harness or ECU (but I don't know the part numbers either).

Or you can have this entire car for $7800, even though it looks a bit nice to be parted out.

The Astra is a subcompact family car, not many people bought these for performance and the 2.0 turbo is only on the "sport trim" for this car. Most in Sweden are 1.6 naturally aspirated. You will probably have better luck in German sites.

There is also an earlier Turbo Astra with engine code C20LET but I think that was South Africa only.

[el mechanico]

Thanks. I just started this project yesterday. I have some Swedes that come here and buy up 4 bolt main Chevy v8 junkyard motors but they haven't come in a couple years.

Is the market good?

[Cattle Rustler]

^Why not put an LS1 on the Astra?

[el mechanico]

(05-21-2015 10:09 PM)Cattle Rustler Wrote:  

^Why not put an LS1 on the Astra?

Opel gt and too heavy.

[germanico]

(05-21-2015 07:23 PM)el mechanico Wrote:  

The thing if you're in Europe i may need something. An Opel engine with rear drive transmission, turbo and wiring harness w/ ECM .

Is that stuff around you?

Opels C where sold in Mexico by Chevrolet as Chevys but none with a turbo.

I had one for a year. That thing burned so little gas that I used to forget to put any in it.



Edit:

Quote:

Opel gt and too heavy.

Nevermind. Talked too soon.

[Fujiwara]

Oh I miss having my car. I've got a gasket kit and an interior to install, and a few long drives to take after that.

(Fujiwara's old Japanese Subaru WRX has been in a body shop for too long)

I want to build a Miata for autocross I think...

[the Thing]

(05-22-2015 01:23 AM)Fujiwara Wrote:  

I want to build a Miata for autocross I think...

I'm going to get a Miata just so I can rig the headlights to wink at freshman year college girls.
Anyway, how reliable are those things? I found one cheap but it's in Germany, it looks fine on the ad but if it breaks down I'll be out $1200 and stranded 1500 km away from home.
The car I found is a 1990 year model, 1.6 liter with 243k km on the clock.

[MrXY]

Ive read they are quite reliable and easy to work on and are popular wuth home mechanics for that reason.

I've thought about buying one myself

[rdvirus]

Miatas are fantastic cars, little underpowered but great otherwise. Make sure the top isn't junk

[el mechanico]

^ bulletproof except some years had a short crankshaft and if the pulley is not put on super tight it will fuck the crank up. So if you look at one start the engine and stare down at the balancer if it wobbles its been botched.

Jackson racing makes a supercharger you can put on in a couple hours but be ready to do some more mods to make it work right.

[Buster]

Check and make sure the heater core isn't leaking, I've changed one, and it is not easy working upside down in a car that small with big hands......