![[Image: stepanakert_eng_520.gif]](http://www.welcomearmenia.com/img/original/stepanakert_eng_520.gif)
![[Image: Stepanakert-Town-Map.mediumthumb.jpg]](http://www.mappery.com/maps/Stepanakert-Town-Map.mediumthumb.jpg)
Go here for the zoom version of the city map.
During my trip to Yerevan, Armenia I decided to take a short 2 day/2 night excursion to the NKR/Stepanakert. Overall I had a great time and would recommended it to anyone wanting to go. I never had any issues (aside from being stared at by curious locals). I was surprised at the level of English, but Russian will be very useful as many people still don't speak English. I went during February and is the "low season," apparently it is a somewhat popular destination for tourists during the summer.
Visa: From what I understand you can get a visa in one of two ways.
The first way (and the method I used) is to go to the NKR Mission in Yerevan (17a Nairi Zarian St), which while not in the center shouldn't cost you more than 1000-1200 dram ($3.5-4 USD) to get there. You can just walk in as the buzzer doesn't work and just say "visa" to the reception and they will point you in the right direction. You will probably fill out the application form and then 20 or so minutes later you will be called back to the visa office where you will need to go pay the cashier and will be given your visa. The lady working was used to foreigners and asked if I wanted it on a separate piece of paper (because you will be denied entry into Azerbaijan if you have an NKR visa). You will need to "know" where you are staying, however you can just say at one of the many hotels and there is no check if you actually stayed there or not. They will also give you a piece paper with a stamp that is your exit form and will need to give to the guard on your way out. If you use this method there is no need to register or do anything once you get to Stepanakert. This is contrary to what the border guard will tell you as I was confused and went to the visa office, but told me since I already had my exit form I didn't need to visit them.
The other method is to get it in Stepanakert, which according to the website is only granted "in special conditions," but I think pretty much anyone can do it.
http://www.nkr.am/en/the-procedure-of-fo...he-nkr/92/
Getting in: The only way to get in is by bus or mini-bus leaving from the Yerevan Central Bus Station (near the U.S. Embassy). There seems to be one or two mini-buses per day usually leaving in the morning. Going to Stepanakert I paid the bus driver directly, however, on the way back I had to buy a ticket from the bus station cashier. Cost was 5000 dram ($12.5) each way and the trip takes around 6-8 hours. There is usually one stop for about 30-45 minutes about half way for lunch/break and there will be one or two more short breaks for fuel. At the border, you will need to go to the guard shack and they will log your entry again you will need to tell them where you are staying (but no verification so it doesn't really matter). Note after you enter the NKR the route is very mountainous, if you get motion sickness be sure to bring something with you to help, though it is very beautiful drive and apparently part of the silk road.
Lodging:I stayed at the Park Hotel Artsakh, which not exactly a budget option at $40 a night, it was extremely modern and better than many hotels I've seen in Europe. It also had a good restaurant in the basement that I ate at one evening (see below).
However, there are many options for lodging and many opportunistic people will be offering lodging from the second you get off the bus.
Phones: My MTC SIM card from Yerevan didn't work in the NKR, however, I believe there was a kiosk selling local SIM cards (Karabakh Telecom or something similar) at the bus station, though I never got one due to only staying a very short time.
Transport:There are a couple of bus lines that go through the city, but isn't really necessary, its probably a 20 minute walk from one end of the town to the other
Taxis are pretty cheap. I hired one for about half a day and it cost me about $30 USD, most of the taxis are metered.
Stepanakert: The city is clean and modern. There is a high presence of Armenian military personnel, however, that is due to many of them being stationed there for rotations to and from the front. I was never hassled. The people there were extremely friendly and hospitable. For example the first night I was eating dinner at the hotel and a family was having a party or some sort of celebration. They came over and insisted that I join them at their table and I became apart of their feast/celebration. They taught (or tried to teach) me Armenian dancing and gave me a liver function test by seeing how much mulberry vodka I could consume. One of them even offered to take me, the next day, on a personal tour of the NKR, however, by the end of the night I was near black out drunk and managed to go pass out without getting contact info. Oh well.
Restaurants: There are several cafes around the main traffic circle.
The two restaurants I ate at were: Park Hotel Artsakh restaurant and an Italian restaurant (forgot the name) on G. Lousavorich St., but was recommended to me by one of the ladies at the city history museum.
Game: Not much of anything going on at night. I imagine that during the summer there is more going on when more tourists come. If you are looking to bag a local girl, you probably need to do day game. Just post up near the university (it's behind the bus station), though you'll probably need to be there for a week at the minimum because they strike me as conservative. The second night I found a bar on the aforementioned traffic circle, however, I was the only person in there. I spotted a couple other bars throughout the city, however, they weren't open.
Sights:
- More monasteries than you can count. Didn't go.
- Ruined city of Agdam (supposedly not 100% legal), I did go as apart of my taxi tour of the province, though he was a bit hesitant we didn't encounter and problems or police/military checkpoints on the route(although I wasn't able to visit the mosque because there was a military checkpoint blocking it)
- Several museums in Stepanakert (also they are free): City History Museum, Fallen Soldier museum and Victory Museum/monument were the ones I went to.
- Soushi: Ruined temple
