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Belém do Pará: Gateway to the Amazon
#1

Belém do Pará: Gateway to the Amazon

I'm just back from a 5 days' stay in Belém, where I was mainly caught up in formal events. Whereas this situation of formal engagements has somewhat limited my freedom to explore more sights and venues, it was a truly memorable trip worth reporting. Also, to wear a suit in the Amazonian climate is an experience on its own, believe me.

Belém, overall:

Embraced by two arms of the Amazon Delta, Belém is quite unique for a start. The river is so wide you can't see the other shore, and when you do, it's usually just one more green island looming from far away, not the actual opposite shore. The city has over 2 million inhabitants so, while still being surrounded by big chunks of jungle, it offers most amenities we're used to.

Big Cons of Belém:

- despite being a huge and wealthy state (Pará has 1.248.042 km2, more than double the size of France), there is a lot of poverty. In Belém 1/3 of the people live in precarious conditions.

- Forget about public transportation.

- Forget about 'civilized' things such as sewage treatment and urban planning.

- Conversational Portuguese is absolutely essential. Don't waste your time and money if you're not minimally comfortable with the language.

The Best of Belém:

I'll get to other details further down and will focus here on the big advantage it has from a sexual perspective: sheer demographics.

- There is a very noticeable surplus of women in town, who often compete for men. This is a town were great women can't easily find matching partners.

- 90% percent of the women are ugly as hell, 10% are either super bangable or highly attractive.

- 97% of the minority of men look like failed abortions with turtle faces.

Conclusion: If you're just average looking or above, with good manners and you are in rather good shape, you'll be a ladies' hero in Belém. You will automatically belong to the upper 3% of male desirability and you will, accordingly, also get a noticeable special treatment from the ladies. From the shopkeeper to the state secretary, there are good chances that, if the lady is available, she will let you know during an animated chit chat.

Belém's Women:

I won't go into detail about the ugly majority. Unless you want really easy lays by dropping your standards, it's the minority you're going for. But the shortage of desirable men is so acute that getting the cream of the crop shouldn't be a great obstacle here.

Belém's women are amazingly close to their natures and instincts; making Rio and São Paulo resemble, by comparison, formal societies in what regards expressing sexual intentions. The women there gave me 3 types of looks:

1. I'm friendly but I'm neutral (not interested, perhaps already taken).

2. I'm friendly and I like you (I'm interested in getting to know you better and perhaps more).

3. I'm friendly and I'm making it clear to you we can definitely get laid unless you really screw things up for us.

Even being a Brazil veteran it took me a whole day to distinguish between these different non-verbal announcements since people are overall very open, extremely friendly and easy-going. But once you can figure them out and you get a nr.3 type of look, it's a green light which is not hard at all to follow.

I was literally stalked on day one, at a random bakery (Delicidade, Rua Braz de Aguiar), as I moved from one place to another, (cashier, table outside, choosing a sandwich inside) and this 7 girl just followed me everywhere and gave me the "Come on, baby" kind of look (she was a non-pro, if you're wondering). I was with two people in a formal context so I had to let this opportunity pass, unfortunately. The girl herself didn't mind I was in the company of other people when orbiting around.

I was desperately eye-fucked by a thin Japanese girl on ultra high heels waiting in a queue. Damn, I was in a hurry running to a meeting and just gave her a good bye while we smiled at each other.

Anyway, I'm not trying to exaggerate here, I'm just trying to say that in Belém women will not be shy to show quite clearly whenever they're interested in you. Spending time there, any decent looking and presentable guy will get noticed by some pretty straight-to-the-point women.

The Attractive Women of Belém:

I'd say they come in three types, basically:

- the 'native mix'. There were some stunners with red-brown skin, long legs, very long black hair and sort of dark, exotic mestizo features. Most of the 'native types' are plain ugly but there is a true model-quality minority.

- the lebanese mix: there is a significant lebanese-arab minority in Belém. I've seen my fair share of beauties from this group and the girl I dated and banged during my short stay was a 3rd generation, full-blooded, truly beautiful lebanese.

- the japanese mix: the other significant minority in town. It comes either mixed with everything else (very nice usually) or apparently completely original with some Brazilian kinkiness and outgoing behavior as added bonuses.

Day Game:

I'm not sure I can give the best coordinates here, but I'd suggest Rua Braz de Aguiar (and the street scene in the neighborhood of Nazaré), plus the malls called Boulevard and Patio Belém.

Night Game:

- Palafita. For me, it's the nicest spot, it's right next to the Clube de Remo and 50 meters away from the old cathedral. It's a wooden construction on the water, with live music and tons of university students (sunday is the best night).

- Barcelona (big informal bar which has a nightclub on the 2nd floor) : Avenida Alm. Wandenkolck (Umarizal). Nice, nice.

- Deja Vu (upscale place for those who like house music): Av. Jose Malcher, Nazaré neighborhood.

Belém has a very lively night scene, I'd suggest, because it all changes fast, to check with a cool cab driver or with locals about where to go. In principle, there is a hot spot for every night of the week.
Special mention for Hangar, which is the big venue for concerts in Belém. It's close to the airport and this is where the most famous artists perform when in town.

Sightseeing:

There is a lot to see, just a few higlights here:

- Mercado Ver-O-Peso: It's the old typical market on the shores of the river. My favorite spot in town. It has everything from the most exotic fruit and food on display, both outside and inside 19th century european cast-iron structures.

- Feliz Lusitania: Beautifully restored complex of the remains of a XVII century fort with an adjacent great historic mansion which has a pleasant terrace for drinks and an upscale restaurant inside (it's walking distance from the Ver-O-Peso market). It also has great views of the arms of the Amazon river. Nearby are the streets of old Belém, also worth visiting.

- Mangal das Garças: A small area of environmental protection, with a beautiful restaurant operating in a wooden rustic house (with a buffet of local delicacies) on top of a permanent exposition about navigation and shipping in the Amazon. See the gardens populated by all sorts of animals, get the elevator of the tower to see the view. See the collection of living butterflies and birds.

- Estação das Docas: It's similar to "Puerto Madero" in Buenos Aires, yet really worth a visit. It's a newly refurbished area of the old harbor with restaurants, bars, shops, expositions... On a sidenote I have to mention, however, that this was the only place I've seen in Belém with an unfavorable ratio of men-women sitting around tables. Perhaps because of the tourists, who knows. Perhaps this changes according to day-time.

Where to stay:

The obvious place is the Radisson Maiorana in Nazaré, but it's pricey for people on a budget.

You can also try Hotel Soft Belém in Nazaré, two blocks away from the Radisson, which goes for half the price and is truly clean and super OK.

Special mention for Hotel Portas da Amazonia, in front of the complex Feliz Lusitania in the old part of town. This is a charming ancient house which has been refurbished by a very friendly Italian owner. Prices are good and I would recommend it if you don't mind the bells from the old cathedral waking you up in your room.

Food in Belém:

The local cuisine is simply exquisite and different from anything else you might have had previously.

Special mention for Remanso do Peixe (Rua Barão do Triumfo) for the Amazonian fish stew (caldeirada paraense).

The "Divina Comida" (Rua Serzedelo Correa) for the great and exotic Amazonian Turtle dishes.

The Pato no Tucupí (duck Amazonian style), available in several locations )also Mangal das Garças).

Tacacá: Manioc soup with fresh herbs, chilli and dried shrimps. Best eaten from street vendors. Check with locals where the best are located.
etc. etc.

Fruits: prepare to encounter at least a dozen tasty types of fruit you never heard about before. Cupuaçu and Bacuri desserts are especially recommended.

One ingredient I'd like to mention specifically is the "Jambú". It's a typical Amazonian green that sensually tickles your tongue before slightly anesthetizing it. If you see that a dish has "Jambú" in it, give it some priority.

Trips from Belém:

I haven't been personally to these places, but everything mentioned here comes from several locals, who actually converged in their comments. I'll try to confirm this intel personally soon enough.

- Santarém: go to "caribbean style" river beaches (Alter do Chão), eat well, party with easy-going native girls who speak only portuguese, see the jungle. Take a short flight from Belém, truly forget about the boat connection.

- Ilha do Marajó: it's the biggest fresh water island in the world (it's approx the size of the Netherlands) and a wonder of nature, just a few hours by boat off Belém. It has two little towns with bars and girls which you can use as a base for going to the hinterland (jungle and wetlands). Best thing, if going inland, is to stay at a farm that rents rooms in the house.

- for the adventurers with money: Ilha de Mexiana, which can be reached only by chartered boat or small airplane, it's half in the Amazon river, half in the Atlantic Ocean, north of the Ilha do Marajó. I don't have to say more.

- for the adventurers with good local contacts: Try to go to Macapá (3 hours drive from Belém). Local contacts could easily take you to the full jungle experience further inland (eating steaks from a whole list of exotic species, for instance, or illegally entering indian territory to do traditional drugs).

- for the hardcore adventurers, no matter what: Surf the "Pororoca"! Once a year tidal waves from the sea invade the Amazonian Delta, going tens of kilometers inland and flooding everything on its way. There are plans now to make the "Pororoca" surfing available even at night, with the use of surf boards with LED lamps.

General note: The Amazon is overall rather expensive and services-logistics are below average and more complicated. Go to Cancún if you want predictability and overall easiness.

That's all folks! Feel free to comment and to ask questions.
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#2

Belém do Pará: Gateway to the Amazon

Thanks for the report! For those interested in Amazonian food but unable or unwilling to go to Para, check out the restaurants Tacaca do Norte and Arataca in Rio. Not really restaurants, more like botequim, but with very good food sometimes, including tacaca and the original acai. Tacaca do Norte is across from a pretty good motel in Rio where I've taken a number of fun hours...
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#3

Belém do Pará: Gateway to the Amazon

Anthony Bourdain did one of the better "No Reservations" episodes from here, and I've been curious ever since. He actually sampled Jambu, and talked of the effect of the greens in it. He also ate something with the boiled juice of the Cassava root, which in it's natural form is one of the sources of cyanide. I believe Jambu also has this in it. Once boiled, it's no longer toxic. I want to try Jambu because it has shrimp in it, and soups are one of the safer things to eat off the street.

"The best kind of pride is that which compels a man to do his best when no one is watching."
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#4

Belém do Pará: Gateway to the Amazon

Excellent data sheet, very well wrote and organized. Thanks for reporting on town that I had no clue ever existed, +1 from me.
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#5

Belém do Pará: Gateway to the Amazon

@ BAO: Spot on! Those are indeed two good places for amazonian stuff. Worth recommending.

@ Timoteo: Yep, that manioc is called "mandioca brava". Its boiled juice is the basis for a lot of local delicacies, Tacacá, the Tucupí stock etc.. They also use the manioc leaves "mariva" which are equally poisonous but, once boiled, add a distinct flavor and color to food. You'll find "mariva" in another soup-like, very famous dish, called "Maniçoba".

Being a lover of everything good in life, I had a couple of cases of fresh jambú shipped to my place, it's something to impress visitors for sure. Girls giggle, laugh, get surprised when their tongues get that tickling thing going on. I also got some dried shrimp from the mangroves and a small shipment of salted Pirarucú. It's sort of a dinossaur fish, have you heard of it? Pirarucú would be have been something really special to be shown as well on the program.

@ Scotian: Thanks! I do my best. The idea is to "repay" all the good stuff I get from the forum. Feel free to ask for more intel.
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#6

Belém do Pará: Gateway to the Amazon

Quote: (02-27-2013 01:13 PM)Locksmith Wrote:  

@ BAO: Spot on! Those are indeed two good places for amazonian stuff. Worth recommending.

@ Timoteo: Yep, that manioc is called "mandioca brava". Its boiled juice is the basis for a lot of local delicacies, Tacacá, the Tucupí stock etc.. They also use the manioc leaves "mariva" which are equally poisonous but, once boiled, add a distinct flavor and color to food. You'll find "mariva" in another soup-like, very famous dish, called "Maniçoba".

Being a lover of everything good in life, I had a couple of cases of fresh jambú shipped to my place, it's something to impress visitors for sure. Girls giggle, laugh, get surprised when their tongues get that tickling thing going on. I also got some dried shrimp from the mangroves and a small shipment of salted Pirarucú. It's sort of a dinossaur fish, have you heard of it? Pirarucú would be have been something really special to be shown as well on the program.

@ Scotian: Thanks! I do my best. The idea is to "repay" all the good stuff I get from the forum. Feel free to ask for more intel.

Yes...they went fishing for the Pirarucu in the episode also. They stretched nets across a narrow part of the river and caught one.

"The best kind of pride is that which compels a man to do his best when no one is watching."
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#7

Belém do Pará: Gateway to the Amazon

Nice report. Take heed everyone, Brazil isn't over. As long as you stay North of Rio.

Forro should be popular in Belem. It's easy to dance to, and the sluts love it. Did you hit up any forro spots?

Also, did they have tambaqui? That's my favorite Amazonian fish.
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#8

Belém do Pará: Gateway to the Amazon

Quote: (02-28-2013 12:00 AM)Bacchus Wrote:  

Nice report. Take heed everyone, Brazil isn't over. As long as you stay North of Rio.

Forro should be popular in Belem. It's easy to dance to, and the sluts love it. Did you hit up any forro spots?

Also, did they have tambaqui? That's my favorite Amazonian fish.


Belém has an increasingly famous music-night scene in Brazil. It's surely vibrant and you'll find from hip hop and techno to samba, forró, pagode, rock and even Colombian cumbia... Just ask around to check what the best options are on any given night.

I had most fun at "Palafita" and they had reggae that night.

The traditional music of Pará, however, is called "Carimbó". To me, it sounds like a version of caribbean calypso. It can be danced either with traditional costumes with couples swirling around or in a cheek-to-cheeck swing, which is more usual.

I have no clue how to post videos directly, so I'll copy some links to Carimbó material from youtube here:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ALG2TvrPPNU

(this is the hard-core traditional carimbó with costumes and all. notice the 'native mix' girls).

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ClO83KIhl_0

(this is a famous carimbó singer. it's hilarously kitsch and has a contagious rythm)

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WMnaG8QsEag

(this is an Amazonian Celia Cruz!)

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3ufbgc-FO4o

("fashionable carimbó" for a major stage and for a national audience).

P.S. Yep, plenty of tambaqui there.
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#9

Belém do Pará: Gateway to the Amazon

Thanks for the datasheet. I am looking to organise a trip in Brazil in which I hit a few off the beaten path places where I could get laid easily.
How hard is it to dance salsa? Are other dances like salsa, bachata and kizomba danced as well?
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#10

Belém do Pará: Gateway to the Amazon

I meant to ask "how hard is it to dance samba?'.
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