[Gorgiass]

(09-01-2017 08:29 AM)Jetset Wrote:  

OK, serious question for anyone familiar with tile setting:

If I understand, you should have Schluter profile vertical on the tiled wall above where it abuts the wainscot anyway. Why not continue the profile to the floor and add a piece of profile to the vertical edge of the wainscot tile at that corner. 45* miter to meet the top horizontal profile, ws side. If you pick the right radius it would look virtually continuous with profile transitioning into profile, but even if the radius wasn't perfect I don't think anyone would pick up on it.

15 years experience with most aspects of commercial and residential construction, co-owner of a specialty trade co for about five.

[Jetset]

(09-01-2017 01:13 PM)Gorgiass Wrote:  

(09-01-2017 08:29 AM)Jetset Wrote:  

OK, serious question for anyone familiar with tile setting:

If I understand, you should have Schluter profile vertical on the tiled wall above where it abuts the wainscot anyway. Why not continue the profile to the floor and add a piece of profile to the vertical edge of the wainscot tile at that corner. 45* miter to meet the top horizontal profile, ws side. If you pick the right radius it would look virtually continuous with profile transitioning into profile, but even if the radius wasn't perfect I don't think anyone would pick up on it.

15 years experience with most aspects of commercial and residential construction, co-owner of a specialty trade co for about five.

Thanks. We may be talking about the same thing, but maybe not:

Ideally, we'd have a single piece of Schluter creating a 90-degree corner between the two surfaces, floor-to-ceiling. That's what will happen where tile-to-tile meets on the bottom half.

This is the one place in the room where a tile-to-tile corner meets a tile-to-drywall transition and a tile-to-drywall corner. So on the drywall area of the wainscot side, that profile would not have any material to meet and stick out 1/4".

If I understand your solution, we'd use another vertical piece to mount them back-to-back and fake a 180-degree profile that continues rolling all the way over to the drywall, and then an inside corner on that piece to meet the horizontal profile of the wainscot.

I have prepared a high-quality isometric rendering.



Or am I not getting it? We'd briefly talked about doing this this way but thought it would be too obvious that we cobbed two pieces together since the entire shape would face the viewer. However, we haven't actually held the pieces up and looked at it yet.

[Gorgiass]

I mean instead of creating the corner with a single piece use two pieces (ideally with a relatively large radius) each flush to edge of drywall. Looking like this from top view at lower wall section -



Then terminate the rhs vertical piece with a 45* miter and the horizontal wainscot piece with the same and butt together. Even with a more typical 1/4 round profile this detail wouldn't look bad in my opinion. Maybe seal the joint with some color matched sealant, Dow, Tremco, and Sikka make some pretty good color matches for bronze and anodized finishes.

[Jetset]

Now I understand. The explanation is appreciated, thanks for taking the time.

[Ski pro]

Hello all

I managed to strip the thread of an Allen key bolt that holds the silencer onto the end can of my motorbike.

The bolt is surface mounted, not flushed in.

Any ideas or tricks on how to get it out without having to take a drill to it?

[roberto]

If you've stripped the thread doesn't the bolt just pull out? Grip the head with a pair of locking pliers and unscrew whilst pulling?

I might have the wrong end of the stick here.

[Ski pro]

Wrong use of words. I've made the inside of the head smooth where the Allen key goes into the bolt and gives it leverage. so when I put the Allen key in it just spins inside the head.

[roberto]

(09-09-2017 01:24 AM)Ski pro Wrote:  

Wrong use of words. I've made the inside of the head smooth where the Allen key goes into the bolt and gives it leverage. so when I put the Allen key in it just spins inside the head.

No sweat. Many options. Firstly I'd apply a penetrating oil. Then:

1. Try the locking pliers if you have room. Probably only an M5/M6 thread, shouldn't take much torque. However, being an exhaust stud it could well be rusted, so if so proceed to 2:

2. Take an angle grinder with a thin (1mm) cutting disc. Carefully slit a slot across the middle. Use a screw driver to unscrew. Tap the end of the screwdriver with a hammer as you apply torque to aid in unscrewing, otherwise the head might decide to open up with the torque. If you have or don't mind buying an impact driver, this is by far the best tool:



https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Impact_driver

Option 3 is: Get a set of stud extractors, and use a fairly chunky one that grips the inside of the stripped head before the tip of the extractor bottoms out. You may still need to drill a way in. Stud extractors are turned to the left, and tap a thread into the damaged fitting as you do so, allowing you to apply torque to undo them.



You can probably only do either 2 or 3, as each will make it difficult to to the other if it fails. So the nuclear option is to weld a bit of metal to the damaged bolt. A strong attachment to the leverage of the bar plus the expansion of the fitting via the heat of the weld breaking the rust means that this very seldom fails.

What bike is it?

[Ski pro]

Africa twin from 1992. I just fitted an arrow can and you have the option of leaving the silencer in or out. It sounds good with it in but it's just offensive with it out and that's what I was trying to do. I think as the can has heated up its made the nut extra sticky inside the thread or expanded the metal somehow. It's a shit bit of design.

Anyway, locking pliers worked. Thank you. And thanks for this thread.

[roberto]

(09-09-2017 03:15 PM)Ski pro Wrote:  

Africa twin from 1992.

Nice bike! I really wanted one, but couldn't find an older example at the right money so when a BMW F650 came up instead I went for that. Certainly a little 'softer' than the AT, but a good 'do everything' bike with some knobbly rubber on.

[Moto]

Here's a question more long-term career oriented. I'm currently a teacher, and I can get paid decently at international schools or online so long as I'm in a third-world country with low cost of living. However this career won't cut it if/when I decide to go back to the United States.

I have some modest mechanical ability, I can maintain a motorcycle and rebuild the top-end of a two-stroke type motor.

Which trade would you recommend a newbie to get into. I have heard plumbing can pay quite well after trade school and some apprenticeship. It would be great to make a living capable of supporting a family and also being an independent contractor. Do folks recommend plumbing, or are there other trades that might be better in this situation?

Thanks

[Cattle Rustler]

(09-10-2017 11:07 AM)Moto Wrote:  

Here's a question more long-term career oriented. I'm currently a teacher, and I can get paid decently at international schools or online so long as I'm in a third-world country with low cost of living. However this career won't cut it if/when I decide to go back to the United States.

I have some modest mechanical ability, I can maintain a motorcycle and rebuild the top-end of a two-stroke type motor.

Which trade would you recommend a newbie to get into. I have heard plumbing can pay quite well after trade school and some apprenticeship. It would be great to make a living capable of supporting a family and also being an independent contractor. Do folks recommend plumbing, or are there other trades that might be better in this situation?

Thanks

How old are you?

The most important question you should be asking yourself is "Do I have the 10-15 years needed to learn and branch off (open my own biz)?". Because you don't want to be in your 40s or older and still swing a hammer or cleaning off shit. If you're a bit older, sticking to teaching and developing a side hustle like Suits might be your better option.

[Moto]

^^ Thanks Cattle Rustler. I'm late 20s.

Been looking into various kinds of businesses as well, exploring various options. I just remember, I think on this forum, a story of a surgeon who decided to become a plumber to make more money. Maybe that's not representative of what most people could reasonably expect.

[LeeEnfield303]

Ive looked into this, and I've shyed away from plumbing due to the really shitty ( no pun intended) places you end up having to go...although it pays well.

I'm thinking more of electrician work. It's very much in demand, at least in my area, and not as physically demanding as, say, framing, carpentry, or brick work.

[Renton1875]

(09-10-2017 02:16 PM)LeeEnfield303 Wrote:  

Ive looked into this, and I've shyed away from plumbing due to the really shitty ( no pun intended) places you end up having to go...although it pays well.

I'm thinking more of electrician work. It's very much in demand, at least in my area, and not as physically demanding as, say, framing, carpentry, or brick work.

Posted this before, but it's pretty funny and apt:

Posted from mobile.

[Laner]

(09-10-2017 11:07 AM)Moto Wrote:  

Here's a question more long-term career oriented. I'm currently a teacher, and I can get paid decently at international schools or online so long as I'm in a third-world country with low cost of living. However this career won't cut it if/when I decide to go back to the United States.

I have some modest mechanical ability, I can maintain a motorcycle and rebuild the top-end of a two-stroke type motor.

Which trade would you recommend a newbie to get into. I have heard plumbing can pay quite well after trade school and some apprenticeship. It would be great to make a living capable of supporting a family and also being an independent contractor. Do folks recommend plumbing, or are there other trades that might be better in this situation?

Thanks

If you live in a city with lots of new builds, plumbing is awesome. Think of a nice, up and coming city that looks to head into a bit of a building boom (follow real estate trends, and things like geography for tight land availability). Get all your plumbing hours in on new builds, which is just threading and laying pipe. Its easy, clean from a plumbing standpoint, and you can stack good money while gaining experience.

If you are in a place with old stock housing and are a plumber, life will be hard. Crawling around in moldy spaces, retrofitting, etc. The pay is the same for much harder work, and owning your own firm means less profits. "journeyman" means traveling for the work, so if you are prepared to do this, you will be fine.

Off the top of my head:

- Seattle
- Portland
- Vancouver, BC
- Calgary, AB
- Toronto, ON
- Denver
- Scottsdale
- Miami
- Raleigh

[LionHound]

(09-11-2017 03:35 PM)Laner Wrote:  

(09-10-2017 11:07 AM)Moto Wrote:  

Here's a question more long-term career oriented. I'm currently a teacher, and I can get paid decently at international schools or online so long as I'm in a third-world country with low cost of living. However this career won't cut it if/when I decide to go back to the United States.

I have some modest mechanical ability, I can maintain a motorcycle and rebuild the top-end of a two-stroke type motor.

Which trade would you recommend a newbie to get into. I have heard plumbing can pay quite well after trade school and some apprenticeship. It would be great to make a living capable of supporting a family and also being an independent contractor. Do folks recommend plumbing, or are there other trades that might be better in this situation?

Thanks

If you live in a city with lots of new builds, plumbing is awesome. Think of a nice, up and coming city that looks to head into a bit of a building boom (follow real estate trends, and things like geography for tight land availability). Get all your plumbing hours in on new builds, which is just threading and laying pipe. Its easy, clean from a plumbing standpoint, and you can stack good money while gaining experience.

If you are in a place with old stock housing and are a plumber, life will be hard. Crawling around in moldy spaces, retrofitting, etc. The pay is the same for much harder work, and owning your own firm means less profits. "journeyman" means traveling for the work, so if you are prepared to do this, you will be fine.

Off the top of my head:

- Seattle
- Portland
- Vancouver, BC
- Calgary, AB
- Toronto, ON
- Denver
- Scottsdale
- Miami
- Raleigh

All very true. I'd add that if you find an area where plumbers are scarce and don't mind retrofitting, crawling around and such, you can also make bank. My local journeyman plumber is like that and if is to be trusted on what he says he makes per year, it's something like 90-100k. This is a guy who after investigating a broken garbage disposal pipe that had spewed gallons and gallons of muck underneath this house told the owners fuck that, clean it up first then I will repair. So the homeowners shop vacced most of the crap out themselves before calling him back to make the actual repairs. Took him about 45 mins and he charged $100. Well over a hundred bucks an hour.

[Laner]

Just made me think of a guy in my building. He does only high rise calls for little bitch issues like he has an industrial sized snake (ha) to push out clogged pipes (haha).

I have given his number to about a dozen girls I know who keep flushing bad things down the toilet and putting things like chicken carcass down the garburator with a cup of grease.

He charges a min for the house call plus labour and parts.

One friend of mine does $250k a year with only three guys working for him. Started out in sprinkler fitting and moved on to plumbing. Canadian trades wages are huge money.

[RatInTheWoods]

"Electricians go home at 3pm smelling like money" !!!! Hahahahah

I can confirm this.

[Laner]

(09-12-2017 03:28 AM)RatInTheWoods Wrote:  

"Electricians go home at 3pm smelling like money" !!!! Hahahahah

I can confirm this.

I keep in contact with the trade schools here and the electricians pre-apprentice and year one classes are booked at least a year in advance. Even more for the pre-app program. There are also lots of women (maybe 20%) in this program. Certainly higher than any other trade.

Withing the electrical trade is the guys who do building controls. Its more specific but its also more or a tech trade and has a great future. I watched a small company here hit it big doing the sensors for high rises. Canada has such strict safety measures that there is only one place to go for this type of trade.

[Sooth]

Become qualified for single phase AC, and also gas fitting.

Then you can fit heat pumps and califont gas water heaters.

Also, with lots of electric vehicles starting to appear - every one of these usually needs basic electrical work done in the persons garage to upgrade their wiring from the main distribution box to the wall socket.

Easy clean money.

[Renton1875]

(09-12-2017 04:22 PM)Sooth Wrote:  

Become qualified for single phase AC, and also gas fitting.

Then you can fit heat pumps and califont gas water heaters.

Also, with lots of electric vehicles starting to appear - every one of these usually needs basic electrical work done in the persons garage to upgrade their wiring from the main distribution box to the wall socket.

Easy clean money.

That's where I'm at Sooth. Don't really touch the plumbing side now, though sometimes you just can't avoid it!

@Moto. Late 20's is when I first went to trade school, being older you tend to pay more attention in class and ask your journeyman more job related questions, by the time your finished your time/apprenticeship you'll be more competent and knowledgeable than 50% of the folk on the job.

Also seen an ad saying 4yrs college costs 120K compared to a trade school cost of around 28K. No wonder the trade schools are full.

http://explorethetrades.org/

------------------------------------------------------------------



Enough derailing roberto's thread.


Some asked earlier about slow running/blocked sinks (basins)

Forum favourite baking soda with white vinegar (don't waste your precious ACV) salt is optional.

Pour baking soda down plug hole then slowly pour in vinegar.

Make sure to have kettle of boiling water to wash it down.

Impress your girl with this trick, their sinks/basins are always gunked up.

[General Stalin]

(08-12-2017 04:17 PM)debeguiled Wrote:  

(08-12-2017 12:23 PM)scotian Wrote:  

How bad is draining bacon grease into the kitchen sink really?

Not bad at all. It's fine.

Why oh why would you go to the trouble of putting something that solidifies at room temperature in a jar




What does Life Hacker Know?

when you can have this?


18 Inches of joy.




Makes your arteries look like a slip and slide.






And a smoker's lungs look beauteous.



Do what you want.

Reasonable fellows that they are, plumbers shouldn't charge too much for dealing with this:

Had this issue last week. I think it is likely from grease and fibrous veggies and food scraps getting down my drain. Tried all the home methods (vinegar and baking soda, plunger, coat hanger, wet vacuum) ultimately ended up going to the hardware store and buying a 25' drain auger. That fixed it.

[IvanDrago]

(06-16-2017 01:08 AM)The Beast1 Wrote:  

Here's one for you gents.

I need to learn how to weld. Where do I start?

Should I invest in a MIG set and just start putting metal together? Do i have to worry about any problems of the metalurgic kind?

If you are looking to start, I would recommend a little 110 flux core wire feed. The welds aren't pretty but you can pick them up for around $75 they are good for small fixes while you learn how to lay down beads and not burning through your metal. From there, you can move on to a cheap harbor freight mig for a couple hundred. You can get started using fluxcore on it and buy a tank later. They don't have a lot of setting control but, for occasional use, they are a steal. You don't need to spend $800 if you are just getting started.

[ShotgunUppercuts]

Got a question for car wrenchers.

Im building a 76 nova (possibly a race car) im looking for a dana 60 rear end,what trucks could i find one in ?