[NASA Test Pilot]

I want to begin this data sheet by stating that the best surfer out there is the one having the most fun.

Of all of the activities that I do, surfing is my favorite; it seems that I never tire of surfing….at least not yet. I have been surfing for about 4 decades and the last decade has been an endless summer. I will surf everyday if I can, from first light to twilight if the waves are pumping and my body can endure.

The feeling that you get when you catch a wave is called the stoke and it lasts a lifetime. It is the sensation that you get as you catch and carve up the wave and/or when you continue to have this feeling after you get home; it is being happy and thrilled at the same time. You dream about it even after decades. Physiologically it is what you feel after the adrenaline rush is gone and may be attributed to the negatively-charged ions given off by churned up water and sea spray, which can elevate serotonin levels. While surfing you experience elevated levels of adrenalin and dopamine. There is also a sense of peace and tranquility that I experience as I sit on his board while the sun warms my face and I gaze into the horizon. Today was no exception.

A friend once said, ¨surfing is not just something you do but something you are. I surf, therefore I am.¨

People surf for many different reasons, for health and fitness, adventure, experience, or just to be out in the ocean. I, like many surfers feel out of place when I have not ridden a wave for a few weeks. Talk to almost any girl who has dated a surfer for a modest length of time and they will grudgingly tell you how surfing comes before the poo-nany (what they do not tell you is that right after surfing, the surfer takes the poo-nany). I guess there is a difference between being IN the sea and being OF the sea. Surfers seem to be on an eternal quest for perfect waves. I view this as an extension of a man´s nature to better himself and strive for an ideal.

Surfing is an art and method of leisure that had has been a part of ancient Polynesian culture for thousands of years. There is evidence that a surfing culture existed in Samoa and Tonga long before places like Hawaii. You normally surf on the ocean, but it is possible to surf on lakes, in rivers, in man made waves pools and behind boats. In certain bays we could get behind tankers and ride the wave behind the ship for long periods.

Surfing is a sport of achievements. The first wave ride, the first surf line, the first barrel, the biggest wave…all stories to tell and bars to be raised

Wave height is measured in two ways, I prefer the second, but was raised with the first. The California (Bascom) method is where the surfer stands on the beach with eyes aligned with wave crest and the horizon. He or she then measures the wave from that point to the average sea level. The second (Hawaiian) method measures the wave by the top of the back of the wave where it begins to curl. The difference in these two methods is on the order of a one third (to one half) reduction. Sometimes a third way is considered that is based on the area that is actually ridden by a surfer; this is a hybrid that often yields a result somewhere in the middle. The largest wave on record is 78 feet or a little over 23 meters (as measured by the Hawaiian method), but you hear stories of monsters in the Cortez Bank, Peahi (Jaws), or Mavericks. Sometimes waves are not measured in feet and inches, but in increments of fear. The heaviest wave in the world is often considered to be Teahupoʻo in Tahiti. The Tahitians call it the skull crusher as it can get grow to 23 feet breaking over a reef that can be be less than two feet (or up to 5 feet) in depth; It is an unusual semi-circular break with a steep wall where the professional surfers at the top of the game tread cautiously. A healthy respect for the ocean is needed as a surfer.

It is not possible to paddle into really big waves (generally over 5-6 meters) as you are unable to match the velocity of the wave under your own power, rather you need to be towed into a big wave with a wave-runner. When you ride waves in excess of 5 meters you are not as much training to ride the wave as much as you are training to survive the wave because the real monsters can shove you 4-5 meters under water quickly.

The quality of waves in a given location is largely dependent on the timing of the waves sets moving toward the shoreline (or reef/change in ocean floor topography) for bigger offshore or monster waves. The amount of time it takes for two successive wave crests to pass through a determined point is called swell period or wave interval. High quality waves are generated in the open ocean, hundreds of miles offshore. When the period is 6-10 seconds it often indicates that there will be a spot or two that is pumping as the waves are generated by local winds and currents. When the period is closer longer (especially closer to 20 seconds), the swell has accumulated energy over larger distances in the ocean and can overcome regional currents and local winds. Generally this also means that the waves are going to get bigger. Here is my measuring stick (period is in seconds):

Wave Period (s) Wave Conditions

1-5 Local wind swells with bumpy and disordered waves. Generally poor surfing conditions but it may be possible;

6-8 Regional and local wind swells with average surfing conditions. Some waves have your name on them;

8-10 Medium-distance swells improve the local surfing conditions. Waves are not like women, they will not get jealous if you ride
more than one;

10-12 The power of ground swells is taking effect; Get your ass out there now;

13 + Higher quality waves, be prepared to have a story to tell.

When a wave is smooth like glass, it is considered to be of the highest quality. Regardless of the above conditions one of my mottos is that a day with waves (surfing) is better that a day without waves.

Waves are mainly a product of the wind, as wind touches the surface of the ocean the energy is transferred to the water and helps create the swell (a group of travelling waves). Local shore winds can also produce waves, but they usually destroy the quality of the breaking waves. Onshore winds are typically known for creating choppy and bumpy waves because they push in the direction of the wave, making them unstable. In theory, low-pressure systems are responsible for creating good and strong waves. The friction created by these winds helps to form energy waves that travel thousands of miles until hitting final obstacles; usually coastal areas.

When swells eventually reach shallow water they slow down and the wave energy is released in the form of breaking waves. This energy is focused toward the more shallow areas of water, since that section of the wave isn’t moving as fast as the sections traveling over deeper water. The way in which the line of swell bends horizontally as it breaks is called “refraction” and is dependent on landscape characteristics and the depth of the sea floor. There are two types of refraction: Firstly is concave; where a line of swell travels over a raised bottom contour that has deeper water around it, the farthest ends of the wave will bend toward the shore. From the side, the wave looks like a bowl with energy focused at a peak in the middle; Teahupoʻo is an example of this. This type of wave can produce excellent surfing waves that can be ridden to the left or the right of the peak. The second is convex; where a line of swell encounters a headland, for example, with deeper water adjacent to it, the middle of the wave will bend away from the deep water and toward the shoreline. As a result, wave energy is spread over a wide area. This is known as convex refraction and can result in less powerful waves but longer rides than the concave variety.

There are a number of obstacles that can affect swell behavior as the wave moves toward the coastline like reefs, large rocks, jetties, sunken boats, or other artificial reefs. Sand banks are normally changing at beach breaks. This is why beach break wave quality is so variable and often unreliable. A new sand bank typically means a new wave peak because swell hits the sandy obstacle and pumps the wave crest, allowing surfable waves. The water drags along the bottom, transporting the sediment. If the motion is greater in one direction than the other, then the sediment will have a net displacement.

Waves are a complex result of many factors from being created by wind which is created by the rotation of the Earth and the friction that is caused by pressure differentials within the atmosphere, and influenced along the way by changes in sea floor topography, rainfall, tides, coastal backwash, currents and local winds. There is also stuff like geomorphology of the planet's surface, solar energy and gravity, but I am not going to get into that here dude.

I spend time talking about the above because the location and conditions that you choose to surf will directly affect the quality of your surfing experience and the intensity of your stoke.

When you learn to surf, I recommend an instructor that is not only a good surfer, but one who can teach. Sometimes surfers are not the best teachers, they are simply incredible surfers (the same can be said of many endeavors). I think that the best teachers start you out first sitting on the beach, talking about safety, your board, how to read the ocean (in terms of where to surf, where to paddle out, currents, tides, winds) and then you practice on land for quite a while before going into the water. It is much easier to practice your body position, standing up, and maintaining balance without the floor under you moving (in all three dimensions) or having water shoved up your nose. If you are not a strong swimmer, practice as this will directly relate to your surfing and safety. After you learn to surf and begin going out with a buddy, consider surfing in water that is at least as deep as you are tall.

When you practice on the land it is good use an outline of your board in the sand first and make sure that your six is toward the ocean and you can see a tree or building that will be used as a reference point. I recommend by beginning with mental and physical rehearsal on the land at first as it is much easier without the stress of pounding surf and delay between what you think you should do and what you actually will do in a three dimensional environment that is changing every second regardless of what you are thinking or what you actually do. Consequences are going to happen. So you will practice your body position on the board, paddling, setting your hands, lifting your head and picking a reference point on land (if you look down with a moving ocean and a moving 3D surf board without experience, you will fall unless you are a natural). Then you will learn to press your upper body upward and slide your center of gravity forward and plant your feet in the proper position on the board. There are a few ways to do this, chicken wing with one leg and my preference is the single motion pop-up. You can even practice on the floor in any room of your house. It is mainly proprioceptive. You need to learn to control your body and balance in three dimensions while the outer world is changing in three dimensions. The relative constant is the board interfacing with the water.

The first few times you surf should be in relatively calmer water with little (1-2 foot) waves on a very long, wide board and your instructor help you time your wave by signaling to you when to paddle and he will push the back of your board to help you match the velocity of the wave so that you have a better opportunity. Building confidence is important. For your first board I would recommend a foam board with rubber fins (fiberglass fins can cut you like a knife) that is 10-12 feet in length (longer is easier when you start) very wide, very thick with a very round point. This board will not be the normal fiber glass nor require wax. This will give you maximum stability and increase the probability to stand up. At first you may simply ride a few waves on your stomach to get a feel for moving on the board, then progress to your knees or on one knee. After you stand up the first time, if you have the hunger to keep doing it, watch out as you will want to surf more and more, the rush is addictive. Rent a board (which should be easy if you have an instructor) until you can stand up and feel the stoke. When you have that feeling (and it is un-mistakable) consider buying a board of your own with the realization that you may be changing boards (a few times within the first few years) as your skill level and hunger increases.

As time goes by you move to larger waves and you will find that there are many different types of waves. The Hawaiians have many words to describe the different types of waves and how they break. Generally there are beach breaks, point breaks, reef breaks and river mouth breaks. Waves break to the left or the right (lefts or rights are from the point of view of the surfer). Then there are peak waves, which is are waves that breaks forming a rideable wave both left and right. Two surfers can surf it at the same time in different directions. I personally like point breaks and with my waves 1 ½ - 2 ½ meters high (Hawaiian system) and peak waves with friend. My sweet spot is about 2 meters or 6-7 feet, 12-15 second period and pure glass. If you wipe out, you get a nice trip through the washing machine, but more tolerable. Above 3 meters the waves begin to get really heavy and they take a toll on your body. When I am more adventurous I will do 3 and occasional 4 meters. A breaking wave can apply a pressure of between 250-6,000 pounds per square foot (1,200-30,000 kilograms per square meter). There are many variables involved. The salinity of the water, the height, thickness and width of the falling lip; the winds involved in the equation; traveling speed; etc.. A cubic meter of water (1,000 liters) weighs one metric ton (1,000 kilograms). A 10 meter wave is over 400 tons of water coming down on your body (over coral is significantly more dangerous than sand) if you wipe out and go through the laundry machine.

As you surf more and more, your boards will generally get shorter, less wide, less thick, more pointed, more rocker (curvature of the board from a profile angle that allows you to ride different waves in different ways; additionally there is nose rocker and tail rocker), the back of the board will vary (round tail, pin tail, rounded pin tail, squash tail, square tail, thumb tail, swallow tail, bat tail) as will the shape (concave or flat) of the bottom of the board as well as the types of fins that you use. You will be sacrificing stability for speed and the ability to maneuver and carve the wave.

The fins of a surfboard act as a hydrofoil to improve stability and directional control. As the surfer shifts his weight laterally using his heels, toes, knees, hips, shoulders and arms), the direction of the board is influenced. The ancient surfers did not use fins and their boards were made from large pieces of wood that could weigh 80 or 100 pounds. The outside (rail) fins that are close to the edge of the board assist in converting the (kinetic) energy of the wave in combination with the surfers mass that is on the sloped wave (potential energy) into lift. You know flying has to come in here somehow. The fin in the middle of the surfboard acts as a keel (sailing needs to come in here too). The board with3 fins is called a thruster and when you have a second set of rail fins (twin fins) to the outside you have a 5 fined thruster or without the keel fin in the middle near the tail you have a quad (4 fins). The rail fins are engaged with the surfer´s heels and toes. A surfboard with more fins will produce more lift during turning maneuvers. The size, shape, thickness, flexibility and angle of the fins on the surfboard board influence how the board performs in various surfing conditions. As an example, for larger waves where you want relatively less maneuvering, the fins are oriented toward the nose for stability, when fins are placed closer to the center of the surfboard, the board will make tighter turns. Fins placed, closer to the tail, closer to the rail and oriented toward the nose provide the greatest stability. For fins alone terms like Toe, Cant, Foil, Rake, Flex are important. Some fins are glassed in (permanent), but most are removable.
Shapers are the guys who make surfboards and they are surfers who are part artist and part engineer. The part of the board that usually takes the most amount of time is the side of the board known as the rail. Shaping the rails and blending them properly will dictate how the surfboard releases the water and influences the speed, turning and floatation. The rails tend to be thicker in the middle of the surfboard and less so at each end. Rails are generally two types, soft and hard. Soft rails are rounded with no hard edges. The transition from the rail to the bottom of the board is very smooth. A hard rail (also called a down rail) is more squared off, sloping down in a more distinct manner and may form a corner or edge with the bottom. A harder rail will make the surfboard plane out faster and turn more quickly (the rail is used in a coordinated fashion with the fins). Generally the rails are round rails, down rails, rolled rails, egg rails, 50/50 rails, 60/40 rails .

This is the point where you are attempting to blend all of the curves of the board into a more organic design.

The more you surf, the more boards you will have as there are many different types of waves and types of conditions. Surfers often call this their Quiver (as in quiver of arrows).

My quiver is 7 boards starting with a 6´4¨ squash tailed short board, 19.625¨wide and 2.625¨ inches thick with 3 fins, finishing with a big gun (for large waves). Most of my boards now are custom made for me (but I am no pro). The most important qualities to consider in your surf board are firstly your skill level, then your fitness level and thirdly your height and weight; fourthly the type of wave(s) that you will be riding.

Your board will be fiber glass and you will have a track pad on the back of the board for your rear foot to maneuver as well as put wax somewhere in the of the surfboard to provide traction for your front foot (there are different types of wax for different water temperatures in warmer or colder water. Bigger waves require a larger board (some are called guns) and slow, thick waves usually call for a long board. In general, the taller you are, the longer the board, the heavier you are the longer and thicker the board. Other types of boards are short boards, fun boards, the fish, Sup (with a paddle).

Conservation of energy is important to a surfer as you want to maximize surfing and minimize paddle out and fighting the waves (you will eventually learn to duck-dive and go under the wave as you paddle out). This where studying the conditions 15-20 minutes before you surf pays dividends. Many reef breaks, break into a channel that was made by the discharge of sand from a river mouth that covers and kills the reef. This can be helpful for surfers as it makes for an easy paddle out to the lineup. Look for places where the sand is elevated (sandbar) and paddle out there and then cross behind the break to enter the line-up. The line-up and etiquette are important, when you drop-in (cut in front of a surfer as he is riding the wave) on another surfer or take his wave, receiving a fist sandwich is not uncommon. In general practice in areas that are according to your level, when you move up to places that are more challenging with more surfers observe the line-up and then get in the line-up like everyone else. If you have been surfing for a while it is normal for guys to have buddies (2) and to form small groups of 3-5 surfers and you tend to have spots that you surf together. When visiting a place to surf, learn from and respect the locals. It is a like a tribe. Being a surfer in general is one tribe, being at a certain area is another tribe, on a certain beach yet another tribe or with a certain group on that beach another tribe.

As time goes by you will learn to peel off (relative angle that you ride the wave) at decreasing angles as you get better and your ability to carve up the wave will increase as you learn how to use your hips, legs, shoulders and arms while moving forward in an pounding three dimensional adventure. Your first wave, your first carve, your first tube, and your first radical manoeuver will be etched in your being. After this you will start saying things like; "you should've been (t)here yesterday."

I will close with another thought as it applies to surfing, game and life and that is; ¨Wiping out is an underappreciated skill.¨

[Anabasis to Desta]

I'm definitely not reading your post because I'm at work. It's just that i can't read your threads without playing your official soundtrack.

[atlant]

Great introduction. I do some occasional kiteboarding and wakeboarding but I just haven't been able to really get into pure surfing so far. What annoys me about surfing is that you spend so little time actually surfing. Obviously for beginners that's a given and a phase to be endured, but then even if you're able to catch most waves and stay on the board, there's always a lineup at more popular spots, you gotta wait for the right wave, and then eventually you end back on the shore, then you gotta get back, etc.

But I can appreciate the pure beauty of just needing a board and no other equipment, which makes it far more spontaneous, flexible and somehow more primal and connected with nature, and of course board skills transfer to related sports, so I should try it again sometime.

[WashedUPVet]

Been in the water since my mom was taking me to Waikiki after school every day at age 5. Learned on a boogie and then started surfing at age 15 in California. It is the ultimate feeling which combines nature and sport. I also got into surf photography in the last few years and worked my way into being able to park my camera in the pit at Wedge. What an awesome wave. Now I try to do all things water (bodysurf, boogie, surf, shoot).... except for the last 8 months as I have been in Moscow. Great write up, but I thought it was taboo to tell people to start surfing!!

One thought, test pilot.. I wonder what beaches get the the longest period surf in the world? I'm kind of thinking massive storms off of New Zealand that make their way up to Norcal to Alaska.

[SeanBateman]

Surfing has governed most of the big decisions in my life as far as location and lifestyle. I thought my passion for it would wane as I got older but I've found it to be actually increasing and becoming an even higher priority, especially as I have dialed down the boozing and general debauchery. There are few things, especially sports, that a grown man can be so devoted to with such vigor and enthusiasm. I think some guys feel this way about BJJ too, which a lot of Hawaiins and NorCal guys use for cross training. And surfing seems to be rather binary. I don't know any casual surfers. Guys are either obsessed with it or they never get through the initial phase of the learning curve and give up, or they never start. These days my friendship selection have become more surfing-centric. If a guy that I meet doesn't have an overwhelming urge to get barreled then more often than not we won't have much in common.

As far as cross training goes, or being "surf fit" as they say, I have experimented with a few things and have developed a routine that I'm happy with. Comfort in the water, especially if you like big waves, is the most important thing. Swimming, bodysurfing, building breath holding capacity and being able to relax while being thrashed around will all develop with water time, be it at the beach or in the pool or wherever you can do it. Get in the water. For dry land training I think yoga translates the best for actual wave riding. Open hamstrings and hips make popping up onto the board quickly and gracefully a lot easier. And the shoulder work in a vigorous yoga class helps to maintain or even build paddle strength. I also do some kettlebell movements to keep my shoulders strong and healthy. Because paddling is 90% of surfing, especially where I live, your shoulders and paddling strength are primarily what determine your ability as a surfer once you have the basics of waveriding down. I used to squat/bench/deadlift a lot and I enjoyed it but I found that huge thighs and an extra 15 pounds of muscle don't translate to surfing very well. I'm naturally kind of a big guy anyway so these days flexibly and leanness are more important than bulk and deadlift PRs. And shoulder preservation is paramount. I had a lingering should injury for a while from overhead pressing that hampered my paddling and the combination of yoga and kettlebells seemed to fix it in a way that lifting heavy never did. An added benefit is that the women I've met at 9am in a yoga studio have been far superior to those I've met at 1am in a bar.

So I highly recommend surfing for just about any guy, but not casually. If you want to be sitting at the peak with the local crew catching set waves on good days, it requires a big commitment and a lifestyle built to support it.

[NASA Test Pilot]

The period waves will be driven by the storms that travel greater distances. I could not say definitively, but I would venture that it is most probably the; 1) Antarctic storm that makes it way up from New Zealand (as you suggest) and the wave breaking in Northern California (say Mavericks) or Alaska; the issue becomes land fall before Alaska depending on the track through the North Pacific; 2) An Antarctic wave travelling through the Southern Atlantic making land in Portugal; 3) A wave generated by an Earthquake in Japan or a storm in the Western Pacific making its way to Hawaii or possibly the West Coast of the U.S.; 4) It is possible for a wave to be generated in the Indian Ocean and make its way to California (it happened in 1963). The issue in the first 3 cases will be a long period wave, but my guess is that the wave will also be a monster!

Other than monsters I would consider Chicama in northern Peru. It may not have the longest periods, put it has one of the longest rides. La Libertad, in El Salvador is also excellent. Then there is always the Gold Coast of Australia from Snapper to Kirra. How about the Pororoca in the Brazilian Amazon, it is one of about 15-20 tidal bores. It is over 7 miles long that has been ridden for something like 37 minutes. It normally can only be ridden for a few days in February or March and there are piranhas.

I did say ´get your ass out there now´ for the 10-12 second period. I hope the surf gods give me a pass for this indirect oversight. I will change my words to ¨damn, why am I working today?¨ and say ten king, cum-on-a-wan-a-laya´s as penance and provide a list of tidal bores to the tribe; forgive me, I am not worthy…

Montreal (Canada)
Bay of Fundy (Canada)
Turnagain Arm (USA)
Jackson Hole (USA)
Pueblo (USA)
Pororoca (Brazil)
Trent Aegir (England)
River Severn (England) La Gironde (France)
Seine River (France)
Eisbach (Germany)
Qiantang River (China)
Sri Aman (Malaysia)
Kampar Bono (Indonesia)
Bobr River (Poland)
River Tejo (Portugal)

[SeanBateman]

At a certain point you're going to have dimishing returns in terms of period versus distance travelled. South swells (either from the southern hemisphere or a hurricane off of Central America/Mexico) do hit certain areas of NorCal in the summer but the waves are much smaller than those created by the fall/winter swells that from from the North Pacific. For the right balance of long period swell and distance travelled from the center of the storm it's tough to beat Indonesia from May through September.

[Chevalier De Seingalt]

This is as comprehensive and thorough a guide to surfing that I've seen anywhere.

(03-29-2016 01:21 PM)NASA Test Pilot Wrote:  



The feeling that you get when you catch a wave is called the stoke and it lasts a lifetime. It is the sensation that you get as you catch and carve up the wave and/or when you continue to have this feeling after you get home; it is being happy and thrilled at the same time. You dream about it even after decades.

16 years later and I still remember with perfect clarity the first time I was really pushed by a wave and felt it's energy beneath my feet. I also remember with equal vividness paddling out and seeing for the first time a truly cleanly breaking peak with a long shoulder. Hardly a day goes by that I don't recall that wave in all its hypnotic translucent green glory.

(03-29-2016 01:21 PM)NASA Test Pilot Wrote:  


Talk to almost any girl who has dated a surfer for a modest length of time and they will grudgingly tell you how surfing comes before the poo-nany (what they do not tell you is that right after surfing, the surfer takes the poo-nany).

There is a strong relationship between surfing and sex. I once read an interview with some Aussie professional surfer who said (paraphrased): "I have kids now and whenever we go to the Parent-Teacher days all the other parents ask me what surfing is like. I tell them that it's like sex, but not just any sex, it's like good sex when you're both clicking and feeling it. Then they all go out and buy surfboards."

(03-29-2016 01:21 PM)NASA Test Pilot Wrote:  


Wave Period (s) Wave Conditions

1-5 Local wind swells with bumpy and disordered waves. Generally poor surfing conditions but it may be possible;

6-8 Regional and local wind swells with average surfing conditions. Some waves have your name on them;

8-10 Medium-distance swells improve the local surfing conditions. Waves are not like women, they will not get jealous if you ride
more than one;

10-12 The power of ground swells is taking effect; Get your ass out there now;

13 + Higher quality waves, be prepared to have a story to tell.

I gather that you have surfed extensively in the Caribbean, which I have always understood to have more of the shorter period, wind swell type waves. How would you rate your overall surf experience in the Caribbean compared to other places (based on the metric of fun which as you stated is the only measurement that really matters)? I've mostly surfed in California and Central America, and would consider the pointbreaks around Santa Barbara e.g. Rincon to be my ideal waves (minus the crowds). Do you miss the longer point breaks which I'm assuming (perhaps incorrectly) aren't reliably found there?

(03-29-2016 01:21 PM)NASA Test Pilot Wrote:  

After this you will start saying things like; "you should've been (t)here yesterday."

[NASA Test Pilot]

The surfing is a lot of fun in the Caribbean and the waves are generally shorter period wind swell type waves and closeouts are more frequent. The crowds are minimal, like the Pacific coast in Central America and Mexico was in the 80´s and the Wahine´s are prime. There tend to be more Barney´s and some dick-draggers that usually play on the ankle busters near resorts, but as a whole, I am amped surfing the Caribbean. I remember places like Puerto Escondido (although it is Pacific Coast) when it was a sleepy town with a few locals. It was a hide-away, and now 30+ years later it is well known; there is more of that in the Caribbean. What I like about it best is via my sailboat and going from place to place. There are so many places from which to choose. I spent 18 months one time in the Caribbean just hopping around. In Venezuela alone there is almost 3000 Km of Caribbean coastline with many pristine spots. You do not have those epic Indonesian waves, but solid waves show up on the Windward and particularly Leeward islands especially after a storm with the northerly swell in the winter.

I certainly enjoy the longer point breaks as they are among my favorites. Rincon California is classic with that sweet right during the winter swell, and when the westerly swell is dominant that is a long ride! @ Chevalier De Seingalt, do you prefer the tube at Rivermouth or the ride at Cove? There were so many beach bunnies at UCSB with the campus right there on the ocean.

Rincon in Puerto Rico can be pumping especially in places like Dogman´s (nice break, heavier than Rincon California, but not as long).

@seanbateman, I get the binary aspect of surfing as it seems to be more prevalent as I age. Sometimes when I am surfing constantly it is a challenge to relate to those who have not checked into the greenroom, but I find when I do other activities like swimming, 2 man sand volleyball or kite, it helps me out in relating. Swimming can be similar, but not nearly as amped. Do you cross train a lot and if so, does that make it easier for you in this regard?

I am curious amongst everyone as to how their surfing experience has changed as they have gotten older or more experienced? Seanbateman alluded to it becoming a higher priority and I second that, and I wonder why this is so for others?

[CleanSlate]

I love breaking waves and have done some bodyboarding up and down the US east coast while growing up. Being a competitive swimmer throughout my childhood and high school years, I could hold my own in swells up to 6-7 feet.

While I hadn't learned how to stand up on a board other than practicing using a longboard during a surf lesson with gentle waves up to waist high, I did hone my bodyboarding skills and scored some nice barrels that way. I'm aware that bodyboarding doesn't get as much respect as stand up surfing does, with good reason, but what really matters is what makes you smile at the end of the day, doesn't it?

I used to daydream all the time about surfing - actual stand up surfing - and living in places like Hawaii and scoring some mean barrels, getting tubed, and getting spit out of a tube (you know, some waves spit and spray water out of its tube?). Anyway, my life trajectory just didn't pan out this way. I don't think about surfing as much, but I still think about waves. I feel a tug to the ocean every now and then.

Now I am 36, and my swimming prowess and shoulder strength isn't what it used to be. But with my location independence plans, it's tempting to go to the Philippines and live near a break that gets some reliable surf.

So my question is, is it too late for a 36 year old to learn how to surf? I mean, I want to go beyond longboarding in mushy knee high surf... but keeping my expectations within reason. I don't expect to tackle those 20 foot waves like those in Hawaii or Costa Rica. Teahupoo? No fucking way, haha.

But, pretty much starting from scratch at my age, can I reasonably expect to do some decent surfing with chest to head high waves, maybe a couple feet overhead? How long will it take, and how much practice will I need to put into it?

[YardDog]

(03-30-2016 08:22 AM)CleanSlate Wrote:  

I love breaking waves and have done some bodyboarding up and down the US east coast while growing up. Being a competitive swimmer throughout my childhood and high school years, I could hold my own in swells up to 6-7 feet.

While I hadn't learned how to stand up on a board other than practicing using a longboard during a surf lesson with gentle waves up to waist high, I did hone my bodyboarding skills and scored some nice barrels that way. I'm aware that bodyboarding doesn't get as much respect as stand up surfing does, with good reason, but what really matters is what makes you smile at the end of the day, doesn't it?

I used to daydream all the time about surfing - actual stand up surfing - and living in places like Hawaii and scoring some mean barrels, getting tubed, and getting spit out of a tube (you know, some waves spit and spray water out of its tube?). Anyway, my life trajectory just didn't pan out this way. I don't think about surfing as much, but I still think about waves. I feel a tug to the ocean every now and then.

Now I am 36, and my swimming prowess and shoulder strength isn't what it used to be. But with my location independence plans, it's tempting to go to the Philippines and live near a break that gets some reliable surf.

So my question is, is it too late for a 36 year old to learn how to surf? I mean, I want to go beyond longboarding in mushy knee high surf... but keeping my expectations within reason. I don't expect to tackle those 20 foot waves like those in Hawaii or Costa Rica. Teahupoo? No fucking way, haha.

But, pretty much starting from scratch at my age, can I reasonably expect to do some decent surfing with chest to head high waves, maybe a couple feet overhead? How long will it take, and how much practice will I need to put into it?

Absolutely you can still learn at your age. I know you and know that you're fit.

Your age isn't the issue. Instead it will be committing to live at a beach with consistent waves for a period of 3-6+ months to get to a decent beginner level. You will need 100+ days in waves to become comfortable and consistently able to catch waist to head high waves.

Here in the Phils there are not hyper consistent places like there are in Central America, CA, Mex, Indo, etc. Add in that it's not realistic to live long term in the places with the best waves due to poor internet for work and a poor long term lifestyle.

Siargao is the most consistent spot but it can also have weeks of bad wind in the most consistent season. It does have a very prime season, however. The internet is terrible there and I don't think it's at all realistic to consider running an online biz on the island - not now at least. Factor in power outages as well. The other places, like those around Luzon, are less consistent and I don't think livable for long periods.

If you move here we can surf.

After years of living mostly at the beach, and getting to surf daily, the city life can feel like a drag sometimes. I look forward to spending a couple months at the beach this year and getting back into it.

[CleanSlate]

I would love to make another serious go at surfing. YD I'll let you know when I'm in the Philippines and we'll go surf. When is good surfing season there?

Might have to bust out the longboard to practice on first while you tackle the bigger waves

[Swell]

I will like to add researching proper paddling on youtube is a must for a beginner.

I have have surfed; 1.Tofino, B.C, Canada, 2.Newport, Oregon, U.S.A, 3. Danang, Vietnam.
I have a huge list of places I want to hit.

+1 rep NASA test pilot. I like this and all the work on the sailing thread.

[SeanBateman]

(03-30-2016 01:17 AM)NASA Test Pilot Wrote:  

@seanbateman, I get the binary aspect of surfing as it seems to be more prevalent as I age. Sometimes when I am surfing constantly it is a challenge to relate to those who have not checked into the greenroom, but I find when I do other activities like swimming, 2 man sand volleyball or kite, it helps me out in relating. Swimming can be similar, but not nearly as amped. Do you cross train a lot and if so, does that make it easier for you in this regard?

Cross training for me right now consists of yoga, kettlebells, some swimming when I can, and body weight stuff like push ups, pull ups, etc. I do miss the satisfaction of deadlifting but I'm taking a break from the weight room. I've been wanting to try BJJ for a while but I have yet to start. When I do start I want to go full on so I'll have to re-prioritize things a bit to make the daily time commitment. I don't train with any friends, not that I'm opposed to it but I haven't set up a consistent schedule or routine with anyone. I do expect to find some camaraderie with like minded dudes when I start BJJ. When I get together with the surf bros it's usually to go surf or to have a meal. But abalone season opens in a couple days so I think that will be a fun way to log water time with the surf bros when it's flat and harvest the sea for some delicious food.

[bleaknight]

Man surfing has to be the hardest thing I've tried to pick up. I can do 360s and do double blacks on a snowboard but they mean nothing when I hit the water on my 7'3". Everytime I surf I feel like I'm in a wet tumble dryer because waves in NZ aren't the best to learn on, but I am glad that I'm actually progressing on it. Looking forward to my time in phuket and bali next month for way more predictable waves from what I heard.

[Kona]

This is a great thread.

I love surfing. Everything about it. I live, and grew up in, the worlds epicenter of surfing, Haleiwa, on Oahu. I watched the Eddie Aikau this year, and it almost made me cry.

If any of you guys need boards, I'm in that business. Plus I know everybody, so if there is a specific shaper who's stuff you want, I can get you a great deal if they're from the North Shore.

I could go on for hours, but one thing I'd like to add is when it comes to women surfers, none, not a single one, even the pros, are in it just because they love to surf.c

They just want to get fucked by guys who surf.

Aloha!

[NASA Test Pilot]

What Kona said about women surfers is true, they are not soul-surfers like men, and my realization of this was personally difficult. I guess you could call it a red-pill.

[Brahman]

Great thread!...nothing i can contribute more than whats already here aside from dropping some knowledge on my local breaks in NYC (yes you can surf in new york city) and Long island / jersey

[Kona]

(03-31-2016 11:08 PM)Brahman Wrote:  

Great thread!...nothing i can contribute more than whats already here aside from dropping some knowledge on my local breaks in NYC (yes you can surf in new york city) and Long island / jersey

It is kind of hard to add.

You should go way out Long Island. I know someone that has a place in a town Water Mill, and there were great breaks out there. I googled and found coopers beach, but there was another that was better. Maybe I found a head high or two, but still had a blast. Check it out.

Aloha!

[Kona]

(03-31-2016 11:01 AM)NASA Test Pilot Wrote:  

What Kona said about women surfers is true, they are not soul-surfers like men, and my realization of this was personally difficult. I guess you could call it a red-pill.

There's a lot of red-pills that go along with surfing.

The best one , I think, is that the way to get good, is to associate and surf with people who are good. To take their advice and watch them in action.

I got good by watching my dad and uncles, and then all my friends that knew what was what. Now, i hope, myxnephews and younger friends take my advice.

John john Florence is arguably the best surfer in the world right now. Itsxnotxbecause he took lessons, its because hes been in the water with Kely Slater his whole life.

Here's where I surfed this morning:

http://www.surfline.com/surf-report/backdoor-oahu_4751/ That's Backdoors proper. I paddled out at chun's http://www.surfline.com/surf-report/chuns-oahu_4756/ on the way home but, just watched.

Tomorrow, depending on weather and condition, some friends and I may try some towins at Mokuleia Outer Reefs. That's here: http://www.surfline.com/surf-report/moku...ahu_10835/. I can't surf those wawaves anymorebut can drive jet ski, which I think is a whole other art.

Aloha!

[NASA Test Pilot]

Surfing is Pura Vida. When we surf we often feel in contact with the source. On a social level, surfing is tribal and being involved in the surfing world brings out some of the best aspects of the tribe. One of these tribal aspects is the natural understanding of our place in the world and our relation to our ancestors, our elders and the youth following behind us on the path. It is one of the greatest forms of natural stability for a man.

A second aspect is an understanding of our relationship to the sea and the outer world. I mentioned before that the idea of being OF the sea, not simply being IN the sea. It is a bond that is difficult to describe, but many of us who have being surfing for a while have internalized this notion and it often express in how we live our lives, and when we are away from the sea for a modest length of time we are naturally called back and simply want to surf for the sake of surfing. It is pure life.

[NASA Test Pilot]

In (under) the Office

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[Chevalier De Seingalt]

Just seeing your response now (was travelling without a computer the last 5 days). The combination of boat + islands + surf does seem optimal for maximizing the quality of surf experience, especially in the increasingly more crowded surf world (e.g. the formerly empty beachbreaks where I learned to surf now have a consistent crew on it any time the swell/conditions are lining up).

(03-30-2016 01:17 AM)NASA Test Pilot Wrote:  

I certainly enjoy the longer point breaks as they are among my favorites. Rincon California is classic with that sweet right during the winter swell, and when the westerly swell is dominant that is a long ride! @ Chevalier De Seingalt, do you prefer the tube at Rivermouth or the ride at Cove?

I'm all about the Cove as it is that section which makes it a unique and world class wave . . . the speed and glide you get through there are truly unforgettable, with a perfect pocket for any type of carve you can think up. Also on the right tide and swell you can certainly get some barrels through there also.

(03-30-2016 01:17 AM)NASA Test Pilot Wrote:  

I am curious amongst everyone as to how their surfing experience has changed as they have gotten older or more experienced? Seanbateman alluded to it becoming a higher priority and I second that, and I wonder why this is so for others?

I'm finding it to have a bimodal distribution. As a teenager and in my early twenties surfing was what I lived and breathed. And when there wasn't surf I was kayaking, fishing the kelp beds, etc. Like you said in another post I was of the ocean. For the last roughly ten years I have been caught up with my career, and have lived most of that time in surf-unfriendly cities; for all intents and purposes only surfing when back visiting family. I'm now rapidly approaching the point (within the next several months) where professionally I will have the ability to write my own ticket and arrange my life as I see fit. With that being on the horizon I have been finding that the urge to be in the water is coming up more and more, and it feels like reconnecting with a part of myself that I had walled off. I suspect that soon it will go back to being one of (if not the) driving factors in my life.

Thinking about that reminds of me a man I knew when working at a very blue collar gym as my first job in high school. He was in his late 40's, had a construction business and family, and mostly I remember being disappointed in my attempts to seduce his daughter who was the perfect mix of sultry sexy and girl next door cute . . . Anyway he took a liking to me and told me stories of growing up surfing Blacks and all over San Diego, he travelled the country doing contests and was being groomed for the pro surfer life. But something made him walk away from it and completely stop surfing altogether (I can't remember why). He told me that looking back he was very glad that he did so, as all his former friends ended up with severe drug addictions, and many died from overdosing. His story comes back to me now because I remember my 17 year old self thinking there's no way I could ever let surfing drop out of my life the way he did. But funnily enough that's just what I ended up doing (albeit not as absolute and not for as long).

As a final note to his story I also vividly remember seeing him the day after he got on a surfboard for the first time in 25 years. He looked 10 years younger and talking and laughing about his wipeouts he had the energy of a 14 y.o. grommet.

[NASA Test Pilot]

The Aloha Spirit is a way of life. It contains within it all one needs to know to interact rightfully in the natural world. It is a lesson that is taught and exampled in life. It is passed down generation to generation.


Alo; sharing, being in the present.
Oha; joyous affection, joy.
Ha; life energy, life, breath.


It can be seen as the joyful sharing of life energy in the present or simply the joyfully sharing life.


So when someone says Aloha, they are often communicating something very deep in a very simple way.


In Hawaiian there is no word for nature in a sense of being outside of nature. The Hawaiians did not view nature as being something separate from themselves because nature was their reality.

[Blackman23]

How do you guys compare kitesurfing vs surfing in regards to soul surfing and being in the zone ?