[ball dont lie]

Amazing work Suits!

If I had to go with four main suits to start Id go in an entirely different direction.

You seem to be into the grey/black section of colors. I prefer blues.

So if I had to go with four suits to start.

Medium Grey - You say Dark grey, it seems to be the same idea.

Navy Blue - Dark Navy. This can be worn for anything that a black suit would be needed except a funeral. Unless Im burying my mother I would still probably wear a navy suit.

Medium/Royal Blue. Jcrew has a very nice Caspian blue cotton, unlined, soft shouldered thing of beauty.

Would either go Light Grey or yet another shade of blue, maybe a hopsack, something very visually interesting, maybe flannel blue, thick and fuzzy, or silk/linen slubby summer suit in blue.

I like the idea of thinking of the 4 suits as something that should always cross over.

I have 2 suits.

A blue cotton Jcrew suit.

A medium grey wool Jcrew suit.

2 sports coats.

A thick brown corduroy.

A black and grey houndstooth.

Both are more Fall/winter than summer.

I have a white Seersucker sportcoat but its little large. I got it for 5 dollars at goodwill. I still wear it with light grey cotton trousers and a white polo.

[C-Note]

Great guide. I think you might have mentioned it above, but I've found that you can get away with repeated wearing of one navy and one gray suit by having a large selection of solid and patterned shirts, ties, and pocket squares. If you mix up the patterns and colors of those three things, people rarely realize that you're wearing the same two suits over and over. Do you agree?

You said that you wouldn't talk about vests, "because you're not 50 years old." I'm not 50 either, but I've found that wearing a three-piece suit in many situations looks better than just the two pieces. It adds more depth and refinement to your look. Also, in the office or on a hot day you can take off the suit coat, roll up your shirtsleeves, and still look like you're wearing a suit by keeping the vest on. Furthermore, by sometimes wearing and sometimes not wearing your vest, it provides more versatility by giving the impression that you have more than one or two suits.

I second what you say about getting a suit with a textured weave. The textured weave is what seems to distinguish quality suits from cheap ones. Even though it's still a solid color, the weave gives a depth to the cloth that can't be matched by cheaper materials and is one of the reasons why I think it's worth it to go to the made-to-measure or bespoke tailor for your suit rather than off-the-rack from J.Crew or Brooks Brothers (besides the perfect fit you get by the former).

Anyway, I'm hoping to build a suit wardrobe as extensive as yours. I started with navy, am purchasing a gray, and will probably get a charcoal or double-breasted midnight navy suit after that.

[Gustavus Adolphus]

Great write-up.

I did pretty much the exact same first four, except an olive w/pattern fabric for my fourth, not black. Grey, Charcoal, Navy. Works great.

Then I started adding sportcoats/Blazers for more casual occasions. I even have a camel hair one like this (didn't get the matching slacks):



And Yes, I have the authentic Bjorn Borg headband. It works great as a last minute Halloween costume, and I get to wear a jacket to the party.

[Pontifex Maximus]

+1. Just when I lined up a $2000 budget for suits and was completely clueless about suits. Suits, that was clutch.

[The Beast1]

It's Suit's suitable suit thread.

[Ethan Hunt]

Wow. Puts my suits to shame. I have 2 suits, both blue (one very dark near black and the other medium). Then two additional blazers, again both blue. One blue tweed (lightest of the lot) and the other dark blue. Paired off with jeans blue, black & grey. Trousers blue (slightly different shade to my other blazer) and a few chinos.

Being of shorter stature I find it harder to get off the shelf suits that all fit perfectly.

I do have two additional suits that aren't included in above. But I don't like them very much so considering throwing them away. A black and bright blue. Both really shiny and look like they're made of plastic. The bright blue one I wore at halloween and have fake blood plastered over it. They both seem too tight as well.

My wardrobe is pretty good but I don't have the money at the moment to buy more clothes.

[Chowder Head]

Suits, what suit brands and/or store do you like? Do you like hats with suits?

[booshala]

Damn dude, you put some time into this... have the exact same blue linen blend suit from Black Lapel: will always get at least 3-4 compliments when I wear it out.

[fiasco360]

Solid thread. A while ago I decided to grab a suit and get it tailored. From what I've seen, quite a few men don't have good fitting suits.

I chose a navy blue suit as my first choice. I got quite a few looks from females and everyone in general seems to have this respectful tone toward you.

I think my next choice will be a grey one, but I am kind of wanting to do the white suit jacket + black pants look with a bow tie. But IIRC you can't wear white to weddings, which would be the primary place for me to wear them.

Additionally for dress shoes, what do you do to keep them in good shape? I have the plastic inserts but they don't keep the shoes in the shape I desire.

[Suits]

(03-22-2016 11:28 PM)fiasco360 Wrote:  

I think my next choice will be a grey one, but I am kind of wanting to do the white suit jacket + black pants look with a bow tie. But IIRC you can't wear white to weddings, which would be the primary place for me to wear them.

No, you can't because the bride will get pissy.

Quote:

Additionally for dress shoes, what do you do to keep them in good shape? I have the plastic inserts but they don't keep the shoes in the shape I desire.

How much are you spending on each pair?

[Adrenaline]

Props on the guide Suits, some excellent info in there. I've always wanted to build a solid suit collection and pull them off on a daily basis but the culture/environment I live in and the fact that I feel suits are counter-productive for my look have put those plans on hold.

Do you think suit jackets are better suited to certain body types (tall, skinny) and some men look better without the jacket? I feel as if I can't get the jacket to fit right or look good because of my broad shoulders. Plus, I don't like the fact that wearing a jacket hides a muscular build, which obviously help to attract women. I find myself more comfortable pulling off dress pants, dress shoes and a fitted shirt, without jackets, blazers etc.

[ball dont lie]

(03-23-2016 02:34 AM)Adrenaline Wrote:  

Do you think suit jackets are better suited to certain body types (tall, skinny) and some men look better without the jacket? I feel as if I can't get the jacket to fit right or look good because of my broad shoulders. Plus, I don't like the fact that wearing a jacket hides a muscular build, which obviously help to attract women. I find myself more comfortable pulling off dress pants, dress shoes and a fitted shirt, without jackets, blazers etc.

Most clothes look better on fashion models, ie, thin. Like a mannequin. I'm not even a big bug, 5'10", 175 but my shoulders are big and thin waist, buying off the rack suit coats are a pain in the ass. Sometimes when Jcrew has a big sale I get 5 suitcoats and return all of them because none of them fit very well. They don't fit me right in the shoulders or chest.

So one part is going through and finding what works. My advice would be try a lot of different kind of suits and take notes on how they fit, order a lot of things online, take photos, notes, send them back.

Jcrew has a Crosby suit which is a little bigger in the chest/shoulders. You could order a few in different sizes, see how they fit, send them all back. It would just cost you 5 or 10 bucks for the return shipping to find out how they fit and which fabrics/styles you like: cotton, wool, linen, flannel, etc.

[Oz.]

[Suits]

(03-22-2016 12:14 PM)Pontifex Maximus Wrote:  

+1. Just when I lined up a $2000 budget for suits and was completely clueless about suits. Suits, that was clutch.

(03-22-2016 11:50 AM)Gustavus Adolphus Wrote:  

Great write-up.

(03-22-2016 09:27 AM)churros Wrote:  

Amazing, repped.

(03-22-2016 09:58 AM)ball dont lie Wrote:  

Amazing work Suits!

Cheers.

(03-22-2016 08:18 AM)Jnx Wrote:  

How do you personally go about finding a good tailor? I don't want to take my suit to a tailor that doesn't know current trends

I use a tailor here in Beijing. They primarily target tourists, but they have a number of fans who live here who have discovered that they have a commitment to quality. At $100 USD per suit (if one bargains well), it's an excellent suit for the price. I feel lucky.

Generally, you don't need to worry about trends. The most timeless suits are the ones the ones that stick to traditional standards, although a few modifications that you can research yourself and request may be in order.

(03-22-2016 09:27 AM)churros Wrote:  

Do you have advice on spotting good materials when getting one custom made? I've had shirts custom made in India, but liked some materials better than others.

I'm not an expert in analyzing materials. I've been lucky enough to find a tailor shop that only stocks suit materials of decent quality. I've gotten years of wear out of all of the suits they've made for me with all the structuring staying in places and not even a lost button.

My black herringbone jacket is showing some wear on the lapel edges, but that's after hundreds of days of wear.

I can't advise you on this topic, beyond to recommend getting a referral from someone who has had a good long term experience with a tailor. Generally, a lot of low quality work and materials won't seem like until six months down the road where the shoddiness becomes very apparent.

(03-22-2016 09:58 AM)ball dont lie Wrote:  

If I had to go with four main suits to start Id go in an entirely different direction.

You seem to be into the grey/black section of colors. I prefer blues.

So if I had to go with four suits to start.

Medium Grey - You say Dark grey, it seems to be the same idea.

Navy Blue - Dark Navy. This can be worn for anything that a black suit would be needed except a funeral. Unless Im burying my mother I would still probably wear a navy suit.

Medium/Royal Blue. Jcrew has a very nice Caspian blue cotton, unlined, soft shouldered thing of beauty.

Would either go Light Grey or yet another shade of blue, maybe a hopsack, something very visually interesting, maybe flannel blue, thick and fuzzy, or silk/linen slubby summer suit in blue.

The reason I prefer grey to blue for initial suits is that grey will literally go with anything, but blue will not. If I could only have 4 suits, I would take to shades of grey over two shades of blue. I might have agreed with you two years ago, but after years of wearing at least a jacket most days, I actually find myself wishing for more grey suits more often than I feel the need for more blue.

Blue is very nice though and once you go past 4 suits, it's a great colour to have multiples shades of.

(03-22-2016 10:12 AM)C-Note Wrote:  

Great guide. I think you might have mentioned it above, but I've found that you can get away with repeated wearing of one navy and one gray suit by having a large selection of solid and patterned shirts, ties, and pocket squares. If you mix up the patterns and colors of those three things, people rarely realize that you're wearing the same two suits over and over. Do you agree?

Absolutely.

(03-22-2016 10:12 AM)C-Note Wrote:  

You said that you wouldn't talk about vests, "because you're not 50 years old." I'm not 50 either, but I've found that wearing a three-piece suit in many situations looks better than just the two pieces. It adds more depth and refinement to your look. Also, in the office or on a hot day you can take off the suit coat, roll up your shirtsleeves, and still look like you're wearing a suit by keeping the vest on. Furthermore, by sometimes wearing and sometimes not wearing your vest, it provides more versatility by giving the impression that you have more than one or two suits.

It's actually a bit of a joke, although partially true. The truth is that I have no experience with vests (because I've decided to wait till I'm older to give them a shot) and am not qualified to comment.

The points you make are true and I've definitely given vests some though, but ultimately ended up deciding that I wasn't 50 years of age yet.

(03-22-2016 10:12 AM)C-Note Wrote:  

I second what you say about getting a suit with a textured weave. The textured weave is what seems to distinguish quality suits from cheap ones. Even though it's still a solid color, the weave gives a depth to the cloth that can't be matched by cheaper materials and is one of the reasons why I think it's worth it to go to the made-to-measure or bespoke tailor for your suit rather than off-the-rack from J.Crew or Brooks Brothers (besides the perfect fit you get by the former).

Completely true.

(03-22-2016 11:50 AM)Gustavus Adolphus Wrote:  

I did pretty much the exact same first four, except an olive w/pattern fabric for my fourth, not black. Grey, Charcoal, Navy. Works great.

Nothing wrong with that. I personally recommend black as a fourth option that would be as obvious if you wear it regularly, but there's nothing horrible about having a patterned olive suit if you're willing to keep it in the closet most of the time.

(03-22-2016 05:13 PM)Ethan Hunt Wrote:  

I do have two additional suits that aren't included in above. But I don't like them very much so considering throwing them away. A black and bright blue. Both really shiny and look like they're made of plastic. The bright blue one I wore at halloween and have fake blood plastered over it. They both seem too tight as well.

Yes, get rid of them. Or alternatively, save them for costume parties.

(03-22-2016 10:49 PM)Chowder Head Wrote:  

Suits, what suit brands and/or store do you like?

All of my suits are bespoke. Find a good tailor or come visit me and China and put an order in at the shop I use.

(03-22-2016 10:49 PM)Chowder Head Wrote:  

Do you like hats with suits?

Yes, but this is a controversial subject and I don't want to lead anyone astray.

(03-23-2016 02:34 AM)Adrenaline Wrote:  

Do you think suit jackets are better suited to certain body types (tall, skinny) and some men look better without the jacket? I feel as if I can't get the jacket to fit right or look good because of my broad shoulders. Plus, I don't like the fact that wearing a jacket hides a muscular build, which obviously help to attract women. I find myself more comfortable pulling off dress pants, dress shoes and a fitted shirt, without jackets, blazers etc.

I think others have already answered your question better than I, as a skinny dude, would be able to.

[ball dont lie]

@Suits

How do you feel about shoulders? Are you into almost zero padding, soft shoulders? Or something with more structure that will create a larger framed shoulder silhouette?

I am very into the as little as possible in the shoulders. I have only one sport coat with a little padding in the shoulders. Some are more layers of fabric in the shoulders it seems. While others are absolutely nothing. I have a thick, wool, winter sport coat with a little mix of poly in the wool for flex and it has nothing in the shoulders. Fits wonderfully.

If your tailor has been doing completely soft shoulder suits for you I may have to check that shop out.

[Suits]

(03-23-2016 09:21 AM)ball dont lie Wrote:  

@Suits

How do you feel about shoulders? Are you into almost zero padding, soft shoulders? Or something with more structure that will create a larger framed shoulder silhouette?

I am very into the as little as possible in the shoulders. I have only one sport coat with a little padding in the shoulders. Some are more layers of fabric in the shoulders it seems. While others are absolutely nothing. I have a thick, wool, winter sport coat with a little mix of poly in the wool for flex and it has nothing in the shoulders. Fits wonderfully.

If your tailor has been doing completely soft shoulder suits for you I may have to check that shop out.

I'm a fan of mild padding to give the shoulders shape, but not enough to oversell your figure.

Suits from earlier decades seemed to have a lot more padding and structuring that what my tailor does.

They'd be willing to make you a suit with nothing in the shoulders, although I don't know how expert they are at getting good results doing this, but for 700 RMB, it's probably worth a try.

[General Stalin]

Spectacular guide, Suits. Reading it has given me a romantic motivation to want to invest more in suit game, but I think the reality of it is just that I'm not the type or live the lifestyle where wearing suits and sport coats regularly really fits my character.

I wear suits now and then as well as dress pants now and then, but in my day-to-day I see a collection of suit pieces going relatively unused. I suppose I could get my hands on a couple pieces and try it out to see if I like it.

I do look great in a suit and I have a couple cheapo ones that I rock on occasion. I have a medium gray off-the-rack slim fitting H&M suit that looks pretty good on me, and I have a charcoal gray Men's Warehouse suit that is also decent but the cheap ass pants are really showing some wear. That jacket is unfortunately too long to wear with casual pants.

What do you recommend for someone just trying to get their feet wet to see if the style fits?

[IronShark]

I have a very K-selected dress style and firm believer in suit.

Suit is what differentiates a real man with a child.

Your suit wardrobe really depends on your lifestyle, industry you work in, and the type of place you live in.

I probably could write a whole article on how above parameters can change your suit wardrobe.

However, there is a video below by Antonio Centeno from Real Men Real Style which explains it very well:

v=_MYYDLR7JDo

[ttvGearHead]

Holy crap. This along with Summer Suits is like the ultimate guide.
Great stuff Suits. Also, are there any particular dress boots that would be a good compliment or be appropriate with the wardrobe?

[eatthishomie]

Question: I'm a big bald bulky motherfucker. How can I suit up without looking like a rent-a-cop?

I always end up looking like nightclub security or a hitman whenever I suit up.

[Balkan]

Nice thread +1

What do you think of retailers like combatant gentlemen? Link here. They have full suits for ~$200. I have 2 of them and I quite like them but admittedly they are rather basic. Any retailers/companies you'd recommend for your first few suits?

[Chowder Head]

(03-23-2016 05:38 PM)eatthishomie Wrote:  

Question: I'm a big bald bulky motherfucker. How can I suit up without looking like a rent-a-cop?

I always end up looking like nightclub security or a hitman whenever I suit up.

Me too! I look like a reverend with a suit.

[Suits]

(03-23-2016 05:58 PM)Balkan Wrote:  

Nice thread +1

What do you think of retailers like combatant gentlemen? Link here. They have full suits for ~$200. I have 2 of them and I quite like them but admittedly they are rather basic. Any retailers/companies you'd recommend for your first few suits?

Fit is the number one priority. Fabric that appears quality is the second priority. If this company is fulfilling both of those requirements, there's no reason not to order from them to build a basic collection.

Do you get compliments when you wear their suits? If so, proceed. If it leaves something to be desired visually when you wear them, look for a better solution.

I personally have my suits done at a local tailor here in Beijing that gets me good results, so I've never tried online ordering.

I have, however, owned an off the rack suit from Zara that fit very well and I was very pleased with, but it never fit as well my bespoke suits. On the other hand, it wasn't bad for $300. My $100 bespoke suits are a far better use of my money, so I haven't revisited that route and only received that suit as a gift from a friend, but if you are a slim guy, you could do worse that European retailers like Zara and H&M.

I also have several Zara blazers that I got at a very good discount that I am very pleased with and offered accents that my tailor probably wouldn't have the ability to produce.

[Suits]

(03-23-2016 05:38 PM)eatthishomie Wrote:  

Question: I'm a big bald bulky motherfucker. How can I suit up without looking like a rent-a-cop?

I always end up looking like nightclub security or a hitman whenever I suit up.

Have you tried pairing your suit jackets with more casual pants?

There's no way a man in either of these outfits is going to be mistaken for a hitman.

[Suits]

(03-23-2016 05:36 PM)ttvGearHead Wrote:  

Holy crap. This along with Summer Suits is like the ultimate guide.
Great stuff Suits. Also, are there any particular dress boots that would be a good compliment or be appropriate with the wardrobe?

Hard to speculate without knowing what your wardrobe is composed of, but in my opinion, something like this is a lot of fun to try, especially if you sometimes pair a slim pair of jeans with a jacket.